FI Guys - What's your gauge setup?
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 558
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From: Eighty Four, PA
If you want to drive off the road you can watch them......wouldn't recommend it 
......the only 2 gagues i will glance at the track is the oil temp and water temp gagues.....they tend to move together and mainly because the oil temps keep riseing......and that is why i added an oil cooler and made sure after about 5 laps the temps will stabilize...do not get talked into running a thinner motor oil because of HP claims.....run the factory spec 10w30 oil or at least make sure you are runnig a 30 weight....the thinner the oil you run it can't cool itself like the 10w30 can......that causes your oil temps to skyrocket......and then your water temps start following and won't cool either. I run a full synthetic racing 5w30 from Royal Purple which i have found to stay cooler than the other 30 weight conventional oils i have run at the track....i don't know why but the Racing 21 oil for me stays about 8-10 degrees cooler at peak than the other 10w30 oils i was running.....I really do feel full synthetic oils are better than conventional oils under hard stress.... I got all my warning lights set for each gague that is a vital.....others are for tuning and just knowing what is going on. They all are important but under normal street driving i rarely even glance at them because nothing is being streesed......just make sure you keep your idle at or about 800 rpm for oil pressure reasons.....on occasion during a very hot day if my idle drops too low my oil pressure buzzer comes on below 20 psi which is dangerous....you will have about 35 psi at 800-1000 rpm....thats normal....and you should see upward of 85-105 psi under high rpm.....this motor runs a ton of oil pressure for the high rpm and the sport bikes run even more!!
......the only 2 gagues i will glance at the track is the oil temp and water temp gagues.....they tend to move together and mainly because the oil temps keep riseing......and that is why i added an oil cooler and made sure after about 5 laps the temps will stabilize...do not get talked into running a thinner motor oil because of HP claims.....run the factory spec 10w30 oil or at least make sure you are runnig a 30 weight....the thinner the oil you run it can't cool itself like the 10w30 can......that causes your oil temps to skyrocket......and then your water temps start following and won't cool either. I run a full synthetic racing 5w30 from Royal Purple which i have found to stay cooler than the other 30 weight conventional oils i have run at the track....i don't know why but the Racing 21 oil for me stays about 8-10 degrees cooler at peak than the other 10w30 oils i was running.....I really do feel full synthetic oils are better than conventional oils under hard stress.... I got all my warning lights set for each gague that is a vital.....others are for tuning and just knowing what is going on. They all are important but under normal street driving i rarely even glance at them because nothing is being streesed......just make sure you keep your idle at or about 800 rpm for oil pressure reasons.....on occasion during a very hot day if my idle drops too low my oil pressure buzzer comes on below 20 psi which is dangerous....you will have about 35 psi at 800-1000 rpm....thats normal....and you should see upward of 85-105 psi under high rpm.....this motor runs a ton of oil pressure for the high rpm and the sport bikes run even more!!
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
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The following is my defi gauge setup, the defi gauges range from $245 a piece to $325 depending on which gauges you want, my particular setup cost sbout $2,000
DEFI CONTROL UNIT II VERSION 2.0,
DEFI BF IMPERIAL PSI 60mm(white): Boost gauge, Fuel pressure gauge, OIL pressure, Oil temp, Water temp, Egt gauge
DEFI CONTROL UNIT II VERSION 2.0,
DEFI BF IMPERIAL PSI 60mm(white): Boost gauge, Fuel pressure gauge, OIL pressure, Oil temp, Water temp, Egt gauge