The forced induction knowedge thread
Yes, absolutely! How about chapter 2? This is one of the reasons this site continues to be the benchmark of car forums. Intelligent members who are willing to share their knowledge. Much appreciated.
Erick
Erick
Well AusS2000 touched a bit on wstegates and solenoids
But since I spent the time typing it up here is the rest on boost control.
Boost Control
OK so we are running FI, but how much boost do we have? How much boost do we want? For a supercharger this is easy. If we want to run 9psi of boost all we have to do is buy a pulley that will spin the compressor fast enough at a 9000rmp to make 9psi. A turbo is a bit more complicated to control boost on. Because it uses exhaust gas to spin the turbine, we need to regulate the amount of pressure that flow into the turbine housing. This is what a wastegate does. I
Boost Control
OK so we are running FI, but how much boost do we have? How much boost do we want? For a supercharger this is easy. If we want to run 9psi of boost all we have to do is buy a pulley that will spin the compressor fast enough at a 9000rmp to make 9psi. A turbo is a bit more complicated to control boost on. Because it uses exhaust gas to spin the turbine, we need to regulate the amount of pressure that flow into the turbine housing. This is what a wastegate does. I
Originally Posted by timg,Aug 29 2005, 11:31 PM
However, you could consider it a supply line to the FMU from the FPR and a return line from the FMU to the fuel tank.
Tim
Tim
Originally Posted by slamar1,Aug 30 2005, 09:56 AM
I would like to know about the purpose of an EGT guage?
Where to mount on the exhaust, what to look for when using this guage, etc.
Thanks

Where to mount on the exhaust, what to look for when using this guage, etc.
Thanks
1. I can use my EGT gauge to tune my AF ratio.
LOL that's my favorite one. Yes you "can" use it to tune your AFR but I highly discourage it. Lower AFRs will give you a lower reading on EGT and higher AFRs will give you a higher reading, so in a sense you can adjust AFR to get a target EGT reading. But here's the kicker. Timing also plays a big part of your EGT readings. Too much advance and you will have a high reading no matter how much fuel you add. Same is true if you cut timing, no matter how much fuel you cut, you will get lower reading. EGT can only be used to set AFR IF and I mean IF you have your timing set perfect.
2. I can use my EGT gauge to tune timing.
See above

3. My EGT gauge will tell me that my engine is about to melt and I can stop the car before it happens.
Not true. Stick a thermometer into a boiling pot of water, how long does it take the thermometer to show the correct temp? Same concept, by the time you get the reading (and this is only a second or two) you have already done damage.
Those are the things that stick out most to me about EGT. Don't get me wrong, I have an EGT in my car. But I use it just like I use my other gauges. If the car is running right I don't even look at it. When I am tuning I look at it to make sure that I am within a range of "comfort". If I'm not that something is wrong with the tune and needs to be addressed.
As far an installation, it can be tapped anywhere into the exhaust. But remember that the closer you get to the head the better your readings will be. Most turbo guys I know tap it into the number one exhaust runner. Others do it at the beginning of the downpipe.
im considering the AEM EMS with GM solenoid. could we touch more on that? im very far away from any tuner and wondering if all tuners are familiar with this concept of boost control? so i dont have to make numerous drives to the tuners to get it retuned etc...
Originally Posted by timg,Aug 29 2005, 09:31 PM
However, you could consider it a supply line to the FMU from the FPR and a return line from the FMU to the fuel tank.
Tim
Tim
Originally Posted by AusS2000,Aug 29 2005, 08:59 PM
I'll have a shot at that. On cars with Mass AirFlow sensors (not ours) they become confused it they see the air go through but it doesn't get to the engine. Not sure of specifics but it's not relevant to us anyway.
The 'advantage' of venting to air is that fully sick blow off valve sound. The 'advantage' of plumb back is a reduction of that dumbass sound.
It all depends what you like.
Also, some authorities have a requirement that says once air enters your system via a filter it should not be released unfiltered except via the exhaust. I believe this comes from the old days when people used draw through carburettors on turbos and vented air/fuel mix to atmosphere. Very dangerous in an engine bay. I think these days the only possible relevance is to do with oil contamination from the filter or turbo but it is a rule in some places nonetheless.
Other than that there is very little difference.
The 'advantage' of venting to air is that fully sick blow off valve sound. The 'advantage' of plumb back is a reduction of that dumbass sound.
It all depends what you like.Also, some authorities have a requirement that says once air enters your system via a filter it should not be released unfiltered except via the exhaust. I believe this comes from the old days when people used draw through carburettors on turbos and vented air/fuel mix to atmosphere. Very dangerous in an engine bay. I think these days the only possible relevance is to do with oil contamination from the filter or turbo but it is a rule in some places nonetheless.
Other than that there is very little difference.
On some cars it even causes it to stumble and fall on its face. HKs and other aftermarket companies make electronic gadget that sense these conditions and try to compensate. Sometimes it works. The best bet is to resurculate this air back in after the mass air flow meter so it can be used but the delay in the pressure saves the turbo.In very rare cases a mass air flow metered car is setup in a blow through fashion where the air is measured shortly before it enters the throttle body. With these systems the blow off valves do not effect the system because the air has not been measured yet.
On a map based system the blow off valves don't need to recirculate because the air is measured in the intake manifold.
The best way to deal with this excess air is to blow it off into the atmosphere. The reasoning is to reduce the intake air temperature. With a recirculation type setup the air that was compressed using the supercharger or turbo is rerouted back into the system. This means you are putting hotter air back in the system to be heated back up again.
BOV placement. The best spot for the bov is close to the throttle body. This allows the sudden surge to open the valve quickly before the turbo sees it. This was the whole point in the first place. Back pressure on the turbo or sc can slowly damage the unit and on a turbo system it slows down the spool between shifts.
J





