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Ok, I've received multiple requests for a parts list via PM so I'm going to post it here for the good of the future forum:
Radium parts:
More Radium. I thought I could use a 90 or 120deg -8AN fitting to connect to the radium fuel rail, but you can't. It hits the intake, so I had to order this, which works perfect:
Summit Racing (these pieces connect to the nipples on top of the AP1 fuel hanger and allow the connection of -6 and -8 AN lines to the fuel hanger):
Lastly, I ordered AP1 fuel hanger. The AP2 returnless does not have the two nipples on top for the feed to/return from the engine. This screenshot shows its discontinued but my local honda dealer was able to order one for me and get it the next day, they said they werent seeing any shortages or low stock in their system:
Save yourself the time, money & heart/headache people and just do exactly what this man did. You'll thank yourself and him later.
Here's some pictures of various parts of the install process to show how I routed things, how stuff went together, etc. Sharing this because I couldn't find any clear pictures like this when I was researching and couldn't quite grasp how it all fit together (as someone who hadn't built a return fuel system before, or did anything other than swapping a fuel pump and injectors before)
Last edited by Dizings2k; Mar 15, 2024 at 05:37 AM.
I second the Origin fuel lines. What you could do for a little bit of cost saving is order the -8 fuel line from Origin, and repurpose the OEM feed into the new return line. That’s what I did and all the necessary fittings and lines to hook everything up and you’re set.
Also if you’re set on running the Walbro 450 skip the SOS kit and go for the Seamless Auto Care fuel pump rewire. I had issues for years with melting fuel pump hangar pins or the 12ga wires coming off the battery, all solved with the Seamless kit.
If I were to do it all over again, I wouldn't change anything at all about the parts i ordered but I would install a little differently. After I swapped fuel pump hangers, install the new hanger/fuel pump back into the tank and then start at the fuel tank/back of the car - get the old lines out of the way and fish the new AN lines up into the trunk area. Do your fittings back there, then move on to pulling the line under the car and up into the engine bay area. It's way way easier to trim the lines to length and do the AN fittings in the engine bay than it is trying to mess around in the trunk area/fuel tank area.
I did not follow the above and ended up re-doing AN fittings on both ends of both lines because I was trying to size the line on both ends at the same time and ended up with lines with ends fitted that were a couple feet too long, so yeah.. just connect at the back, pull the lines to the engine, get the slack out of the lines and ran through the carriers, then terminate them in the engine bay.
Also, if you notice in my pictures I do not have any of the vacuum lines zip tied. I did ziptie them to secure them at the end. IMO this is a must, if you lose a vacuum line off the FPR then the system loses vacuum/boost reference and you'll be boosting without the fuel to match (lean condition) so be very mindful of securing those vacuum connections and running healthy vacuum lines cleanly.
Because of all the new vacuum lines for the FPR and pulse damper that I didn't previous have, I ended up with a spaghetti mess trying to T everything together with my fuel stuff, boost gauge, BPV, etc. I ordered this vacuum block to tidy things up. https://damondmotorsports.com/products/vacuum-block
It comes with a mounting bolt that just so happens to thread perfectly into a threaded hole in the intake manifold black bracket. It was meant to be!
Last edited by Dizings2k; Mar 15, 2024 at 05:55 AM.
I second the Origin fuel lines. What you could do for a little bit of cost saving is order the -8 fuel line from Origin, and repurpose the OEM feed into the new return line. That’s what I did and all the necessary fittings and lines to hook everything up and you’re set.
Also if you’re set on running the Walbro 450 skip the SOS kit and go for the Seamless Auto Care fuel pump rewire. I had issues for years with melting fuel pump hangar pins or the 12ga wires coming off the battery, all solved with the Seamless kit.
Do you have any pictures of how the seamless kit gets installed? I'm looking at their pictures and I assume you drill a hole in the top of the fuel hangar?
I also just remembered - as I was researching this, I found another post here that talked about having to de-pin the old connector on the fuel hanger and flip the wires into the opposite sides of the fuel hanger side connection.. I spent a good bit of time trying to work this out as I had everything in my hand and *I* on my 2006, did not have to switch anything. I spent time de-pinning stuff and then realized I didnt have to once I compared how the power/ground ran from the 06 hanger vs the earlier ones. The actual (blk/ylw) 2 wire connector tab faces a different direction on the AP1 hanger but the wires run to the same terminals on the other end for the large grey connector.
YMMV but I wasted time de-pinning when I didnt have to. Just triple check yours because if it does need swapped for some reason, you'll need to pull the pump again to switch it.
