Ok so this has been done to my block
Sleeve/Bore/Hone/Deck Darton dry sleeve ARIAS Forged Pistons 87mm 10:1
Eagle Rods
Balance Rotating Assembly
ACL /King Race(Mains/Rods/Thrust)Std Micropolish Crankshaft
Assembly: Short Block
Stock Honda S2000 Exhaust Valve
Stock Honda S2000 Intake Valve
Supertech Steel valve retainer
Supertech Valve seats for dual valve springs
Supertech Dual Valve Springs #RET-HBK-ST
Stock Intake/Exhaust Honda S2000 Valve Stem Seal

So my question is can I turbo as soon as I put the motor together or do I have to break it in

 

Who built the motor?

 

The absolute fastest I would do is, trailer it to dyno hookup with break in oil. Two heat cycles, with engine breaking at least 10 miles fluctuating Rpms, cool, drain break in oil, refill, dyno.

But this is a to each your own.

 

Id like to add, I would also consider what kind of hone you received, there is a process called deck honing I believe where it allows rings to seat much faster then a regular hone with microscopic peaks in it. Deck honing is where they hone it and then brush those peaks down. ... lots of things to consider soo

 

With the newer technology of ACL bearings and superior honing procedures, there is no need to "break" the motor in. This is per IP and they just built my motor to the same specs as Red Star's motor. Just put normal 10w40 full synthetic oil in it and do a first oil change at around 500 miles to clean out the assembly lube.

 

Rs machine in Norwalk built my motor . And I'm just trying to make sure I do the build rite since k already blew one motor and it wasn't cheap .. I'm going to run a full race pro street turbo kit on this motor

 

Use mineral running in oil,it will bed your rings and big end/mains in.I used it and changed the oil 3 times in the 1000 miles.It didnt do me any good as the built engine off Kings Performance was a POS it turns out.

 

It might take a little longer but Ken Rodcharoen of KRE builds solid motors. Nuff said. Take a look for yourself. IG him.

You don't have to follow over the top break in procedures (3 oil changes in 1k?), a lil common sense and really just a tune.

 

Follow this: http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

 

Common sense doesnt come into it,first oil change at 100 miles so the oil has hopefully picked up any metal filings from the new parts bedding in,second after 600 miles to collect anything the first change didnt pick up.The oil is inexpensive anyway so apart from the time factor its just being on the safe side.