--Oh, it wasnt a test really... more like a symptom from ... accelerating to speed limit too quickly

My clutch otherwise is fine, so I guess it just wasnt meant to hold that kind of power?

 

If you're on a budget just replace the PP and disk and retain the stock flywheel. I'm also running the HTG package and like it. I did my own clutch about a year after I installed the SC. I couldn't cheat and leave the SC on while dropping the motor. It takes no more than 45 minutes to remove the blower and brackets anyway. A clutch job is not hard but takes A LOT of time due to all the stuff you need to remove.

 

Is this a PM project or is your clutch worn out?

 

I wasn't implying that you were doing a "test". I was implying that your observations based on this scenario is not an indication of the clutch slipping, nor is it an indication that the clutch can't hold that kind of power. In fact, what you did would indicate that your clutch WAS holding that kind of power. If it couldn't hold it, it would have done what I said it would do.

Actually, my clutch appears to holding up quite well after nearly 6 years and 40K of use (the last 3 years and nearly 30K of F.I. use). It's only when it gets really hot, like driving for many, many hours on the highway in extremely hot ambient temps, does it show signs of slipping just a bit. I can still break the tires loose on moderate throttle from a dead stop and the car still launches well.
I got the HTguy kit when the Cdn $$$ rose and just wanted to take advantage of it. Now that the kit is sitting at home, I'm kind of itching to put it on.
The AP2 tranny has always been of keen interest to me. This, combined with my 4.44 FD gears would make for the perfect drivetrain. I'm trying to get all my $$ numbers and finalize the tranny deal now.

 

I'm at a complete loss for ideas then... still trying to figure out why my RPMs dont build immediately start to rise after i shift from redline As soon as the clutch engages, the RPMs drop as they should, but instead of immediately rising again, it fluctuates for 1-2 seconds and then starts to rise.

Any ideas?

 

Guesses:
Bad MAP sensor.
Bad MAP sensor connection in the harness.
Bad wiring connections in the piggy back.

Such fluctuations are not clutch related. They're usually ignition and electronics related. If it was you clutch slipping, the rpm would go zinging up high and your car would seem to be not accelerating.

 

Thanks!

I'll check the connection to the harness first then take a look at the wiring. Hopefully I wont have to replace the sensor.

 

Let me know what you find...I seem to be experiencing similiar symptoms. Not all the time though, only every so often.

 

if u have an ap2 its def the cdv, clutch delay vavle, i am going to be taking mine out soon bc i hate it

 

It's not just a PP thing. You can either make the disc more grippy or the pressure plate apply more force. The pressure plate applying more force would be the easy way to do it for a manufacturer.

If it's not your CDV, it's probably your clutch. I've been very happy with Competition Clutch brand clutches thus far and my customers have been as well.
http://automotivespeed.com/index.php?cPath=23_28_38