A good reliable build?
Kinda looking in a direction of a build. Have a stock f20c block boosted for 15k+ been beating to hell and back and its going to take a dump on me soon and plan on building the motor! My goal on tjis build is for a reliable 625-700whp on a non-sleeved block and stock crankshaft will be on e85. It would be nice if id get some advices from you boostaholic builds! Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams, gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio, bc 625+ rods, thicker rist pins, stock head gasket? L19 head bolts and all arp bolts to whatever i can replace! As for fuel system a 450lph pump, aem fpr and fuel rail, id1700x, should i upgrade fuel lines or no? As im positive if i reach my goal between 600-700 i wouldnt want anymore power! Suggestions on what i should do and shouldnt do? Btw 9:1 or 11:1 comp. Ratio?
Kinda looking in a direction of a build. Have a stock f20c block boosted for 15k+ been beating to hell and back and its going to take a dump on me soon and plan on building the motor! My goal on tjis build is for a reliable 625-700whp on a non-sleeved block and stock crankshaft will be on e85. It would be nice if id get some advices from you boostaholic builds! Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams, gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio, bc 625+ rods, thicker rist pins, stock head gasket? L19 head bolts and all arp bolts to whatever i can replace! As for fuel system a 450lph pump, aem fpr and fuel rail, id1700x, should i upgrade fuel lines or no? As im positive if i reach my goal between 600-700 i wouldnt want anymore power! Suggestions on what i should do and shouldnt do? Btw 9:1 or 11:1 comp. Ratio? 

Listen to this man if you are going to go through the entire trouble of building everything with stronger internals. (worst feeling is having everything bulletproof only to have a sleeve crack on you).
I had Laskey build the following engine for me and lets just say that its quite the HANDFUL:
For the bottom end:
ap2 block = 2.2L
ap2 crank
Cp pistons (11:1 compression ratio)
Carrillo rods (with upgraded ARP hardware)
kept the stock oil squirters
stock sleeves, because we were on a time crunch and were not on going too nuts with the engine
inline pro 3mm hg (bump down compression but not by much)
micropolished and balanced the crank so the rotating assembly will take 9krpms *(no issues)
ACL race bearings *(for the rods and the mains)
Laskey modified oil pump (to take the higher RPM)
new honda seal kit, etc.
+ waiting to add the ATI super-damper crank pulley for added insurance
For the head:
supertech valve seals
new valve guides
stainless steel ferrea intake and exhaust valves (for the added heat from a supercharged setup)
supertech dual valve springs
supertech steel retainers (because we didnt want to worry about the life of Ti retainers)
stock cams
new chain
new guides, etc.
Now in response to your questions: (these are just my two cents, you should do more research)
Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams (this will be great as i have a similar setup, its very hard to beat the OEM cams)
gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio (go with the higher compression ratio or it will be somewhat lethargic out of boost, tuning these days can take care of higher compression turbo builds. if you do choose lower compression im sure you can run more boost like that)
bc 625+ rods (not saying anything bad about bc, but i would look into manley or carillo rods in a f series engine - they take more of a beating)
thicker rist pins (this is also a nice preventative measure, i would see what realstreet performance has to say about this upgrade)
stock head gasket (OEM is the best, or if you want you can run the inline pro 3mm one)
L19 head bolts (these are also great, i run ARP and despite what people say about them, they work awesome)
arp bolts to whatever i can replace! (main bolts? if you do ARP main bolts i think you will need them to have the block line honed with them from what i understood when i asked about them.)
450lph pump (i think this should be ok, but i would be curious about your duty cycle etc and other parameters that will factor into you hitting your goal).
aem fpr and fuel rail (while an aftermarket fuel rail is nice the stock one work perfectly. Radium engineering makes really nice stuff, as well as aeromotive for FPRs)
id1700x (i think you can get away with this size of injector but if you want more cushion for the pushing why not go id2000s and call it a day. do not forget the increased volume of fuel that needs to be accounted for when using e85 if i am not mistaken)
should i upgrade fuel lines or no? ( YES, it would be a wise decision so you do not have an restrictions going from the pump to the rail / vice versa)
I had Laskey build the following engine for me and lets just say that its quite the HANDFUL:
For the bottom end:
ap2 block = 2.2L
ap2 crank
Cp pistons (11:1 compression ratio)
Carrillo rods (with upgraded ARP hardware)
kept the stock oil squirters
stock sleeves, because we were on a time crunch and were not on going too nuts with the engine
inline pro 3mm hg (bump down compression but not by much)
micropolished and balanced the crank so the rotating assembly will take 9krpms *(no issues)
ACL race bearings *(for the rods and the mains)
Laskey modified oil pump (to take the higher RPM)
new honda seal kit, etc.
+ waiting to add the ATI super-damper crank pulley for added insurance
For the head:
supertech valve seals
new valve guides
stainless steel ferrea intake and exhaust valves (for the added heat from a supercharged setup)
supertech dual valve springs
supertech steel retainers (because we didnt want to worry about the life of Ti retainers)
stock cams
new chain
new guides, etc.
Now in response to your questions: (these are just my two cents, you should do more research)
Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams (this will be great as i have a similar setup, its very hard to beat the OEM cams)
gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio (go with the higher compression ratio or it will be somewhat lethargic out of boost, tuning these days can take care of higher compression turbo builds. if you do choose lower compression im sure you can run more boost like that)
bc 625+ rods (not saying anything bad about bc, but i would look into manley or carillo rods in a f series engine - they take more of a beating)
thicker rist pins (this is also a nice preventative measure, i would see what realstreet performance has to say about this upgrade)
stock head gasket (OEM is the best, or if you want you can run the inline pro 3mm one)
L19 head bolts (these are also great, i run ARP and despite what people say about them, they work awesome)
arp bolts to whatever i can replace! (main bolts? if you do ARP main bolts i think you will need them to have the block line honed with them from what i understood when i asked about them.)
450lph pump (i think this should be ok, but i would be curious about your duty cycle etc and other parameters that will factor into you hitting your goal).
aem fpr and fuel rail (while an aftermarket fuel rail is nice the stock one work perfectly. Radium engineering makes really nice stuff, as well as aeromotive for FPRs)
id1700x (i think you can get away with this size of injector but if you want more cushion for the pushing why not go id2000s and call it a day. do not forget the increased volume of fuel that needs to be accounted for when using e85 if i am not mistaken)
should i upgrade fuel lines or no? ( YES, it would be a wise decision so you do not have an restrictions going from the pump to the rail / vice versa)
Last edited by R00567; May 5, 2017 at 02:34 PM.
There's trade offs with everything. Built or not, U want 700hp reliably, drop cr. At the end of the day volumetric efficiency is +100% and your static compression is still 11:1
if ur gonna go 11:1 And then put a 3mil on it? blows my mind.
Your trading timing with cr. So if u got parts that can handle heat, U can consider that.
it's not a question about making the power, it will do it. You have the gas n enough boost she'll dyno great. A dyno just trys to mimick real world conditions.
tuning has come a LONG way for the boost and high cr. World but I think at the end it just comes down to. You can't have your cake and eat it to.
if ur gonna go 11:1 And then put a 3mil on it? blows my mind.
Your trading timing with cr. So if u got parts that can handle heat, U can consider that.
it's not a question about making the power, it will do it. You have the gas n enough boost she'll dyno great. A dyno just trys to mimick real world conditions.
tuning has come a LONG way for the boost and high cr. World but I think at the end it just comes down to. You can't have your cake and eat it to.
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; May 5, 2017 at 09:09 PM.
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Listen to this man if you are going to go through the entire trouble of building everything with stronger internals. (worst feeling is having everything bulletproof only to have a sleeve crack on you).
I had Laskey build the following engine for me and lets just say that its quite the HANDFUL:
For the bottom end:
ap2 block = 2.2L
ap2 crank
Cp pistons (11:1 compression ratio)
Carrillo rods (with upgraded ARP hardware)
kept the stock oil squirters
stock sleeves, because we were on a time crunch and were not on going too nuts with the engine
inline pro 3mm hg (bump down compression but not by much)
micropolished and balanced the crank so the rotating assembly will take 9krpms *(no issues)
ACL race bearings *(for the rods and the mains)
Laskey modified oil pump (to take the higher RPM)
new honda seal kit, etc.
+ waiting to add the ATI super-damper crank pulley for added insurance
For the head:
supertech valve seals
new valve guides
stainless steel ferrea intake and exhaust valves (for the added heat from a supercharged setup)
supertech dual valve springs
supertech steel retainers (because we didnt want to worry about the life of Ti retainers)
stock cams
new chain
new guides, etc.
Now in response to your questions: (these are just my two cents, you should do more research)
Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams (this will be great as i have a similar setup, its very hard to beat the OEM cams)
gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio (go with the higher compression ratio or it will be somewhat lethargic out of boost, tuning these days can take care of higher compression turbo builds. if you do choose lower compression im sure you can run more boost like that)
bc 625+ rods (not saying anything bad about bc, but i would look into manley or carillo rods in a f series engine - they take more of a beating)
thicker rist pins (this is also a nice preventative measure, i would see what realstreet performance has to say about this upgrade)
stock head gasket (OEM is the best, or if you want you can run the inline pro 3mm one)
L19 head bolts (these are also great, i run ARP and despite what people say about them, they work awesome)
arp bolts to whatever i can replace! (main bolts? if you do ARP main bolts i think you will need them to have the block line honed with them from what i understood when i asked about them.)
450lph pump (i think this should be ok, but i would be curious about your duty cycle etc and other parameters that will factor into you hitting your goal).
aem fpr and fuel rail (while an aftermarket fuel rail is nice the stock one work perfectly. Radium engineering makes really nice stuff, as well as aeromotive for FPRs)
id1700x (i think you can get away with this size of injector but if you want more cushion for the pushing why not go id2000s and call it a day. do not forget the increased volume of fuel that needs to be accounted for when using e85 if i am not mistaken)
should i upgrade fuel lines or no? ( YES, it would be a wise decision so you do not have an restrictions going from the pump to the rail / vice versa)
I had Laskey build the following engine for me and lets just say that its quite the HANDFUL:
For the bottom end:
ap2 block = 2.2L
ap2 crank
Cp pistons (11:1 compression ratio)
Carrillo rods (with upgraded ARP hardware)
kept the stock oil squirters
stock sleeves, because we were on a time crunch and were not on going too nuts with the engine
inline pro 3mm hg (bump down compression but not by much)
micropolished and balanced the crank so the rotating assembly will take 9krpms *(no issues)
ACL race bearings *(for the rods and the mains)
Laskey modified oil pump (to take the higher RPM)
new honda seal kit, etc.
+ waiting to add the ATI super-damper crank pulley for added insurance
For the head:
supertech valve seals
new valve guides
stainless steel ferrea intake and exhaust valves (for the added heat from a supercharged setup)
supertech dual valve springs
supertech steel retainers (because we didnt want to worry about the life of Ti retainers)
stock cams
new chain
new guides, etc.
Now in response to your questions: (these are just my two cents, you should do more research)
Gonna be going witj a full supertech head valvetrain with stock ap1 cams (this will be great as i have a similar setup, its very hard to beat the OEM cams)
gonna be going with cp pistions either 9:1 or 11:1 ratio (go with the higher compression ratio or it will be somewhat lethargic out of boost, tuning these days can take care of higher compression turbo builds. if you do choose lower compression im sure you can run more boost like that)
bc 625+ rods (not saying anything bad about bc, but i would look into manley or carillo rods in a f series engine - they take more of a beating)
thicker rist pins (this is also a nice preventative measure, i would see what realstreet performance has to say about this upgrade)
stock head gasket (OEM is the best, or if you want you can run the inline pro 3mm one)
L19 head bolts (these are also great, i run ARP and despite what people say about them, they work awesome)
arp bolts to whatever i can replace! (main bolts? if you do ARP main bolts i think you will need them to have the block line honed with them from what i understood when i asked about them.)
450lph pump (i think this should be ok, but i would be curious about your duty cycle etc and other parameters that will factor into you hitting your goal).
aem fpr and fuel rail (while an aftermarket fuel rail is nice the stock one work perfectly. Radium engineering makes really nice stuff, as well as aeromotive for FPRs)
id1700x (i think you can get away with this size of injector but if you want more cushion for the pushing why not go id2000s and call it a day. do not forget the increased volume of fuel that needs to be accounted for when using e85 if i am not mistaken)
should i upgrade fuel lines or no? ( YES, it would be a wise decision so you do not have an restrictions going from the pump to the rail / vice versa)






