Hello all,

I'm a bit disappointed/pissed right now. I went to church automotive and was suppose to have my car tuned by Shawn himself. Shawn was not there so I had it done by Todd. Nothing against Todd by I specifically requested Shawn to do it and he agreed to it. Anyways Todd put my car on the dyno and did a baseline. My car over boosted right away to 11psi at 5,000 RPM. I haven't pushed my car since putting the exhaust/TP in so I've only seen like 5-6psi on short WOT. His troubleshooting step was to disconnect the boost controller and rerun it. Still over boosted. He said there's nothing he could do and immediately disconnected it from the dynapack and told me to take it to the person that installed it (which is me).
I tried calling Greddy but the techs do not work over the weekend. Luckily I got in touch with Kix (thanks again) and said that my setup could be flowing way to much. I have on a 3" single and 70mm TP. Church said I will need to adjust my wastegate so that it controls the boost at 8PSI. I have no clue on how to do that. I think I'm going to put my Cat back on and get it redyno'd in San Diego to see if that corrects the problem. If it doesn't I'll have to see what greddy has to say. Shawn said that Greddy is notorious for issues with their internal wastegaste.. I hope I did not get one that has issues. So disappointment right now. After 3 weeks waiting to get it tuned I guess the adventure continues. Anyone have suggestions on what I should do next? When I get home I'll post up the dyno charts.

Thanks

 

When my cast manifold was being installed to replace the cracked tubular something happened to cause the wastegate actuator to stick. It would no longer open no matter what you tried and I overboosted on the dyno at PTuning all the way to 15 psi so my tuning session ended before it began. Unlike the way you were treated, the dudes at PTuning spent hours diagnosing the issue and had Greddy in Jersey ship them a new part. They could not guarantee that the part would fix my issue because they needed to take the whole turbo off to pinpoint the issue and did not have time. Unfortunately, that meant I had to come back a week later to get it installed. Unfortunately, the new part did not solve the problem and it turned out I needed a brand new turbo, so instead of sending me back home again (over 200 mile trip one way), they took the turbo from their brand new Greddy kit they had just gotten in stock and threw it on my car. I believe that the flapper valve was defective and Greddy agreed to cover the cost of the new turbo PTuning gave me, along with the reinstallation labor. It took all day do do the turbo reinstall so I stayed overnight in Virginia and came back the next day (Saturday) to finally get my car tuned on the dyno! I went thru hell to finally get my car working and tuned so I feel your pain.

Hopefully you don't need a new turbo and putting a cat on will fix it, but from what I understand it is possible to cause this issue if you make a mistake during installation OR it can just be a faulty part.

Both Greddy and PTuning treated me like a valued customer and made sure I was happy in the end. I didn't even consider installing the turbo myself, because I knew I'd either mess it up or never make the time to do it. Greddy will help you out I'm sure if your problem persists.

 

Sounds like you will need a lighter wastegate spring.

 

Parker that kind of seems like what mine is doing. Below are the dyno charts from Church today. He only took it to 5500 RPM since he knew something was not right and didn't want to push it.





I did some tests on my own though. In 2nd gear WOT 6500 RPM I'm reading 10 psi. 7000 RPM I'm reading 11.4 PSI. 7500 RPM I'm getting 12 PSI. I don't want to rev it any higher. I'm fearful I'll blow something. So what does this all mean? Wastegaste issue?

 

Im starting to get worried, I am going to install my 70mm test Pipe, along with my already installed 70mm Exhaust. I am also installing a manual TurboX Boost controller, then the following day I am going to be driving down to P-Tuning in Va, Hopefully all will go well, if I overboost, maybe I can just but my Cat back on???????????

Is this overboosting all Greddy Kits with Test Pipes, or just some of you unfortunate guys?


Also, if removing the cat increases the flow to the point that BOOST pressure rises, why did I even bother buying a Boost controller? Everything has been go awkwardly smoothly with this kit so far, this will probably end up being an issue with me as well

 

Are you putting a boost gauge in as well? It might be a good idea if you don't have one. I'm really curious to see if your kit will have the same issue. I really hope not for your sake.
I think its my wastegate that is causing the issue. I'm going to contact Greddy about this Monday.

 

I installed a $60.00 Autometer Boost Gauge, on very cold days it may spike slightly over the 8, but normally it runs a very steady 7ish at WOT, but I don't know how accurate this type of Gauge is.

 

Hope everything gets resolved correctly. I still think you have too much flow in your system that is overtaxing the small wastegate. In my setup (60mm test pipe and mugen exhaust) I RARELY spike to 10psi (have to get on the throttle just right) and hold 8-9psi consistently. I would try putting the stock cat back on and see how your boost reacts.

Of course, you can always go the cheap route and install a 3mm head gasket and be the first to shoot for 350whp

 

so is the consensus that a 70mm Exhaust & 70mm Test Pipe will be too free flowing? I think if this is the case it was pointless to buy a Boost controller, I was only going to "up" the boost to 9PSI

 

yeah, it sounds like you are overboosting due to the fairly large breathing setup of 70mm test pipe and 3" exhaust. As you can see, Kix has a fairly small breathing setup and he's already spiking to as much as 10psi.

I find that a stock cat and just a large diameter catback 70 or 80mm will do just fine if you want to stay stock compression and about 300whp with this kit. Of course if you want more than 300, just tune for the higher boost =), but you'll probably need a HG at that point.

oh, and if you want to adjust the actuator, you just need to shorten or extend the end of the actuator rod.