Gremlins - Low Compression & No Vacuum
So, I recently pulled my head to remove the IP headgasket as I am putting the car back to stock. I got everything done and went to fire up the car but it was running extreamly rich, I pulled up the laptop and I am not building but -4 to -6 PSI of vacuum. Before the swap I was running an average on -11PSI.
I have a head with new valves, seals, retainers and it was decked and cleaned. I used a factory headgasket and have no leaks.
The cylinders were all perfect when I pulled the head there was no issues.
Compression test, 140PSI in all (4) cylinders.
Leakdown test showed no issues.
Checked the cam timing and it was dead on
Tried (2) sets of cams
Checked the timing with a light
Checked for Vacuum leaks
I am out of ideas, anyone have any suggestions?
I have a head with new valves, seals, retainers and it was decked and cleaned. I used a factory headgasket and have no leaks.
The cylinders were all perfect when I pulled the head there was no issues.
Compression test, 140PSI in all (4) cylinders.
Leakdown test showed no issues.
Checked the cam timing and it was dead on
Tried (2) sets of cams
Checked the timing with a light
Checked for Vacuum leaks
I am out of ideas, anyone have any suggestions?
Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Nov 20 2010, 11:25 PM
Have you tried to add more timing at idle? Or is this on a stock ECU?
Turns out the TB gasket was on backwards, it can go on (2) ways and the holes will line up but one way the map sensor will get full vacuum.
Got that figured out and now my IAC motor is not working properly, it is hanging and my EPS is malfunctioning?????
I am getting tired of this crap.
Originally Posted by o'malley_808,Nov 21 2010, 11:55 AM
Looks like you found the problem. Either way 140 psi is really low for an IP headgasket.
Since they were all the same, I am pretty sure it was the guage. I will try another when I get a chance.
Still fighting the high idle and EPS though.
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Is the EPS throwing its light on or just acting up? Like some ECUs, the EPS stores codes for whatever light it previously has thrown. The only problem is that you need the stock ecu in and have Honda use their PGM Tester to pull them.
There is also a service advisory/bulletin/whatever for the connector of the torque sensor. The connector is on the driver side in the engine bay on that beam/brace that the stock airbox sits on. I guess the connector can come loose and also the prongs on the connector need to be cleaned.
There is also a service advisory/bulletin/whatever for the connector of the torque sensor. The connector is on the driver side in the engine bay on that beam/brace that the stock airbox sits on. I guess the connector can come loose and also the prongs on the connector need to be cleaned.
Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Nov 21 2010, 05:50 PM
Is the EPS throwing its light on or just acting up? Like some ECUs, the EPS stores codes for whatever light it previously has thrown. The only problem is that you need the stock ecu in and have Honda use their PGM Tester to pull them.
There is also a service advisory/bulletin/whatever for the connector of the torque sensor. The connector is on the driver side in the engine bay on that beam/brace that the stock airbox sits on. I guess the connector can come loose and also the prongs on the connector need to be cleaned.
There is also a service advisory/bulletin/whatever for the connector of the torque sensor. The connector is on the driver side in the engine bay on that beam/brace that the stock airbox sits on. I guess the connector can come loose and also the prongs on the connector need to be cleaned.







