Thats really weird. The nuts for my ARP studs that I bought a month or two ago say 80ft/lbs with their moly lube and 120ft/lbs with 30 weight oil. For the studs themselves, it says "HAND TIGHT ONLY" with all capital letters and even the quotes. I'm looking at the instructions as I type.

So all of our instructions say 80, 85, or 95.

 

^yeah, i think mine stated 80 or 85 with molylube too.

hand thread the studs because when you put the nuts on they will turn with pressure,the point isnt to bottom out the stud but rather get a frim grip from top to bottom and then pull equally from both ends. unlike a bolt that digs down from the top as it goes.

Headstuds ftw as always.

 

Here are my instructions

 

It looks like they use different lubes, but the head stud kit is the same part number.

Heres mine.

 

So dumb question. I just picked up an Alaniz head from kane.s2k and will be installing it. Should I use ARP head studs or just new OEM ones. I have built block and should be seeing 600 hp with this head and my GT 35R divided mani. Also, which head gasket should I use? Is the OEM best, or is there a better one (mind you I am already at 9:1 compression, so just need a standard gasket). Also, where do I buy the ARP studs and different head gasket if that is the best option....
Thanks

 

I torqued my ARP's with their moly lube to 80 ft lbs also and have never re-torqued them and no issues. Dont forget to do it in 3 steps; 30, 60 and then 80 or whatever you go to.

I wonder why his instructions say 95 ft lbs with moly lube? Has ARP figured out that 95 is better than 80 and our old tq is outdated?

Are yours the standard 8740 ARP head studs or do you have the L19's? I'm not even sure they make the L19's for the F20c though but if they do, i'll be going with them when I build the engine.

 

OEM head gasket and ARP studs.

 

At least you got instructions. When i bought ARP headstuds for the S they did not come with instructions.

I talked to a rep at ARP and they told me different numbers. 80,85,95, with either molly lube for the lower, or oil for the higher numbers.

Inline does not re-torque after a heat cycle.

My build now is fine, with out re-torqueing. I went with an open deck sleeved block (benson) instead of a closed deck (darton). From what I found out researching was most closed deck sleeves heat differently from the aluminam block and cause the HG to fail. With the Benson sleeves and several times bleeding the coolant system I have not had any problems since.

Now a couple of gear heads told me to have the ARP studs "stretched" I did not do this.

 

I talked with IP and they said not to retorque

 

I re-torqued mine only because it is not difficult to do. I don't see why you would not even know Inline pro does not. Theres a reason why they tell you to re-torque them and I would suggest that you do it, although there has been plenty of people who have not and have not had any problems.