S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Head bolts?

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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:04 AM
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Default Head bolts?

Ok, NooB question. I just dropped my "S" at the shop to have an SOS supercharger installed. Prior to the installation, I am having the valve retainers replaced (from AP1 to AP2 version) . The shop foreman ask me a question that I really should have considered, didn't, but with the stock boost on the supercharger, I didn't think it was really necessary. Now I am having second thoughts. Should I have the stock head bolts replace with arp studs? My plans may include going to 9psi in the future, but for now the stock 6 psi is where I will be. Any opinions and suggestions are welcome. Thanks
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:30 AM
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Factory head bolts are fine for most superchargers. I ran 17 psi on mine with no problems.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:42 AM
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if your only going 9 psi I wouldn't touch the motor
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:42 AM
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from what i hear the OEM bolts seal just fine running low-moderate boost on turbo/supercharged setups. i was considering going to ARP bolts myself but was told they are a waste of money and can safely run 14psi on my turbo setup without them.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 06:22 AM
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People making 700whp on stock blocks, so the headstuds are fine, BUT if you pull the head completely, I'd suggest replacing them w/ARP's @ that point.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by siadam
People making 700whp on stock blocks, so the headstuds are fine, BUT if you pull the head completely, I'd suggest replacing them w/ARP's @ that point.
I agree - I am having the head pulled to install the valve retainers. which is why the shop foreman ask about the studs, since the head is being pulled. I likely will not have them install arp studs though. I all ready have way too much invested to blow cash on studs I don't need. I guess if I had really thought about the process for replacing the valve retainers, I would have looked at 3 mm head gasket, arp bolts and all. The things you can spend cash on this car are many, but not necessarily money well spent.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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The shop is pulling the head to install valve retainers?

You need to find a new shop to go to. You can do that without removing the head.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LINESUPER
Originally Posted by siadam' timestamp='1300890168' post='20389335
People making 700whp on stock blocks, so the headstuds are fine, BUT if you pull the head completely, I'd suggest replacing them w/ARP's @ that point.
I agree - I am having the head pulled to install the valve retainers. which is why the shop foreman ask about the studs, since the head is being pulled. I likely will not have them install arp studs though. I all ready have way too much invested to blow cash on studs I don't need. I guess if I had really thought about the process for replacing the valve retainers, I would have looked at 3 mm head gasket, arp bolts and all. The things you can spend cash on this car are many, but not necessarily money well spent.
So you agree with what I said, but aren't doing what I suggested, lol?

OEM head bolts are typically not re-useable. They can be re-used, just like wearing day old underwear, but not recommended.

Again, if you pull the head, spend the $100 bucks on studs, or re-buy oem bolts if you like.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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Are ARP's the only option for head/main studs?
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by D1sclaimer
The shop is pulling the head to install valve retainers?

You need to find a new shop to go to. You can do that without removing the head.
I know, but its a Honda shop doing the work, with a factory tech - Honda reccomends head removal, rather than the work around with holding the valves up with airpressure. Plus, you do it their way, they stand behind their work. bottom line, I'm a Noob, and I trust these guys - in 8 years of ownership on the S and 20 + years of Honda shop work they have never burned me. As a testomony of their dedication, I know people who will drive 3 hours to this shop, just to have them do their work.. but you are right, you can replace them without removing the head.


Originally Posted by siadam
Originally Posted by LINESUPER' timestamp='1300895068' post='20389549
[quote name='siadam' timestamp='1300890168' post='20389335']
People making 700whp on stock blocks, so the headstuds are fine, BUT if you pull the head completely, I'd suggest replacing them w/ARP's @ that point.
I agree - I am having the head pulled to install the valve retainers. which is why the shop foreman ask about the studs, since the head is being pulled. I likely will not have them install arp studs though. I all ready have way too much invested to blow cash on studs I don't need. I guess if I had really thought about the process for replacing the valve retainers, I would have looked at 3 mm head gasket, arp bolts and all. The things you can spend cash on this car are many, but not necessarily money well spent.
So you agree with what I said, but aren't doing what I suggested, lol?

OEM head bolts are typically not re-useable. They can be re-used, just like wearing day old underwear, but not recommended.

Again, if you pull the head, spend the $100 bucks on studs, or re-buy oem bolts if you like.
[/quote]

They are replacing the bolts with OEM. They will put in the ARP studs if I want them. Thats why they ask. i am taking away from this conversation that there is a significant advantage to the ARP studs over the OEM, but I would not realize the advantage in my application. Is that correct? My question goes to if their is any real advantage of ARP over OEM. Anyway, as I stated, Noob question.

Just dropped the supercharger off at the shop, and they will likely begin work this week. I appreciate the input.
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