Head bolts: Get ARP, New OEM, or
After getting the impression here that the OEM head bolts would suffice for my turbo installation, I decided against the ARP just so I could save the hundred bucks. My installer recommended that I at least get new head bolts, and since he gets parts at cost, the OEM ones are like 90 dollars.
Should I get the OEM ones, pay the extra 15 or 20 bucks for the ARP head studs (although I've heard that they've backed out on people?), or keep my current head bolts with 70K miles?
I don't want to cut corners on the install, but the last thing I want to happen is to have a bolt back out and blow my gasket or something.
Thanks!
Should I get the OEM ones, pay the extra 15 or 20 bucks for the ARP head studs (although I've heard that they've backed out on people?), or keep my current head bolts with 70K miles?
I don't want to cut corners on the install, but the last thing I want to happen is to have a bolt back out and blow my gasket or something.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by afwfjustin' date='Mar 26 2007, 03:26 PM
Rock on, ARP it is then.
Man - the expenditures for going turbo just never stop
Man - the expenditures for going turbo just never stop

My decision is to go new OEMs.
They are single use stretching bolts so you shouldn't reuse the old ones.
And I'm not convinced the ARPs really achieve anything for you other than throw another manufacturers tolerances into the mix.
They are single use stretching bolts so you shouldn't reuse the old ones.
And I'm not convinced the ARPs really achieve anything for you other than throw another manufacturers tolerances into the mix.
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def go arp and dont ever reuse oem head bolts...
and when torquing them down go 85 lbs with the supplied moly lude but if using reg motor oil i think its 120 lbs tq dont quote me on that cant remember off the top of my head... and after driving 5 or 6 months maybe even earlier go over all of them and make sure non of them walked and tq down again if necessery
and when torquing them down go 85 lbs with the supplied moly lude but if using reg motor oil i think its 120 lbs tq dont quote me on that cant remember off the top of my head... and after driving 5 or 6 months maybe even earlier go over all of them and make sure non of them walked and tq down again if necessery
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to go with the ARP. I'd go with OEM, but, the price is nearly the same and the ARP look to be more reusable. I'll definitely make sure everything is torqued to spec and that I test them every few months to make sure everything is cool. This is my DD and I don't want any (many) problems



