Ok, so the patient is a 2001 road race car with a fairly new 2.2L with 30K miles on the clock.

It was run for one race N/A and one race with the turbo. Motor was fine after the initial race N/A I think...

It was running 7PSI on a Inline Pro kit.
Water temp never read above 180F and oil temps reached 248F at the end of the race. The nose of the car has a lot of additional cooling mods, big radiator and big oil cooler.

Car was running 100 Octane Unlead during practice and qualifying and a mix of 100 and 114 leaded during the race.

Here is the tune
http://home.pacbell.net/tblackey/shad_knock.v1.19.cal

Issue - During qualifying I thought I heard knock. Not 100% sure (I'm in a helmet and open windows) So during the race I added 116 leaded for additional safety (no cat).

Due to a poorly designed Inline Pro oil filer relocation kit, the motor ran for about 15-20 secs with what amounted to the oil lines dumping on the ground during the initial test of the kit. After that the issue was fixed and the system is solid.

The oil filter shows almost no particles, bearings seem to be ok.

Leakdown is about 50% in 2 cylinders and 10-20% in the others. Looks to be going past the rings and the valves both.

My initial thoughs would be overheating or detonation. The tuner was amazed at how much timing he was able to add, which in hindsight worries me, especially since I thought I heard knock.

Also I noticed the tune did not have the knock control enabled. Is this common, or should it be enabled?

I'm also ordering an EGT gauge so I can monitor the temps during the next race. I don't have time to change the engine between now and then, so I'm going to run it as conservative as I can and hopefully gather some data as to why the engine is failing before dropping in a new one.


Thoughts?


I also have noticed the EMS can use an EGT as an additional sensor. Anybody have experience with this?

Bill

 

looking at your fuel maps, they definitely aren't smooth. There is alot of bumps, especially at 6100. He uses boost compensation, but subtracts a crazy amount in vacuum, and then adds over 200% at the higher boost levels. I don't know if this was ever setup for off track stuff, like around town etc, but might help from a little extra street tuning!

Also, I'm guessing your tuning for stock compression? At 7psi, your timing is pretty high! A friend running a tubular manifold (you can run more timing, compared to a log manifold) is running 6-8 points of timing less! I would lower your timing quite a bit, especially considering your running it for WOT for a while! How long were you running the motor for, at a time?

In regards to knock correction, none of my tunes or others with the same tuner uses them. He however tunes very conservatively. I was told that the stock knock sensor doesn't work very well for the turbo setup. I was also told to invest in a VW knock sensor, that picks up more than one frequency for better knock resolution!

I would try and get a different tuner! IF not, lower the timing by 10 across the board. Its ok to run lots of timing if your just doing some pulls on the highway, or running your car on the dyno to hit a number, but when your competitively racing for 20-30 minutes at a time, the temperatures increase alot more than they would in different situations!

 

Thanks Soul for the in depth look. I was thinking the timing was high, but I don't have a lot to compare too.

 

[QUOTE=blackey,Mar 9 2008, 04:23 PM] Thanks Soul for the in depth look.

 

11.3 to 11.8

Races are 30 minutes a piece
Stock head gasket
Fairly small turbo Gt3076RB with .82 exhaust

 

Seems like another case of a bad tuner.

 

I have a tubular manifold on a lower compression built motor. I run 5-6 degree less timing than you do at 7 psi... I also have knock control enabled. However, mine is tuned for pump gas.

Tim