Update: The tuner used the wideband on the car so the AF graph on the dyno sheet is not relevant.

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I posted these dyno results from a recent tune in the dyno thread and several people mentioned that the tune sucks and the car is running rich. This is my first experience with dyno tuning and I could use some help determining exactly what is not right. My goals are to have a safe tune that I can daily drive without alot of headaches.

What, if any, are the obvious problems here that I should be bringing up to the tuner and asking him why he set it up that way (AFRs?)

Based on this dyno is the car safe to drive?

Are there any details of the current tune that I should get from the tuner or out of AEMPro that would help troubleshoot this?

Current mods:
Stock Vortech
AEM 1052 w/ wideband
RC Injectors
Walbro FP
NGK BKR8Eix gapped to .30
Comptech Header + Testpipe
Tanabe Cat-back (going back to stock soon)

Thanks for any help and apologies for the noob questions.

 

If you are only going to make 300WHP then the EMS is a waste of money. You can run on the factory maps with a rising-rate FPR and make that much power. What are your goals? The tune is not smooth at all. If you tuner cannot tune for WOT than I would hate to see the partial throttle data.

 

Wow youre a/f is interesting. Take it to a tuner that knows what theyre doing and you will make way more power. I would want my money back. Amazing some people actually get paid money to do that to people.

 

Could you clarify what specifically isn't smooth? Should the AFR be flatter? I'm really a noob at interpreting dynos and am trying to get a better understanding of what is messed up so I can have an intelligent conversation with the tuner about the problems.

I bought the car with all these mods already installed and took it to a local tuner to make sure it was tuned well so I didn't trash the motor. My goals for right now are to have a safe and reliable setup. I didn't really have a particular number in mind.

I did notice that most people running a Vortech seem to be over 300whp, and thought it was peculiar that with an EMS and all the other crap on this car it didn't even get there.

 

I am no expert but it looks like its rich, it should follow closer to the dotted line, AF around 11-11.5 some go as high as 12. So your leaving some HP on the table.

 

You can only see so much from the dyno sheet. From what I can see youre wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy rich and not very flat af. For a nice safe a/f I would stick with somewhere in the 11.5 range at wot in boost. Youre 10 and I am guessing 10 is as low as it gets since it flattens out perfectly from 7.5 to 9k. I assume it is so flat because the wideband wont read any lower. So youre a/f is completely jacked so id hate to see your timing map.

 

You might want to check your fuel mapping and see how smooth it looks. My guess it's not smooth at all. The AFR seems all over the place on your tune for that dyno run. In addition you're running rich on the high end.

You're probably making people cry from the gas fumes behind you.

I'd get it looked at again soon.

 

This is a HORRIBLE tune. The bottom dark blue graph line is air/fuel ratio. As stated above it should be right around the broken red line which is 11.7.
The problem is that at 5500-6200 and also at 7500-9000 the line is pegged at the bottom that the gauge will read which is 10.0 (Which is very rich), but you car is probably in the nines..

When you get that rich it can be bad for your motor as you can start washing the cylinders out (Unburnt fuel is not a good lubricant and also gets in your oil past the rings). You will also kill your cat and sensors out fast with it that rich.

I would get a re-tune ASAP.

 

I brought up the AF graph with the tuner and got this response:

"I wasn't using the air fuel on dyno to tune your car. I actually was using the wideband on your car. The problem with tail mounted widebands is that they can read incorrectly or erratically sometimes, and whenever I have the option I always use the car mounted one. I just checked the logs, and your the air fuel is spot on. Starts at 11.9 at the beginning of the pull, holds around 11.6 then slowly falls to 11.0@9000Rpm. That also reflects in how smooth the horsepower and torque graphs are."

Does this make sense? It sounds like the AF numbers on the dyno sheet are not relevant.

 

He is admitting he has a dyno that that doesn't read correctly and erratically, at ALL the places I've had my car tuned they have always relied on their own sniffer even though I have one setup in my car. Whether it be in a downpipe or sniffer, I've watched them both read the same A/F. I would just bring it to another tuner where they have a fully functional dyno and mark that one down for experience. You could see the the bump in HP at the 6200rpm mark where it leaned to ~11.7, so it's not completely broken