Help Oil relocation kit
I recently bought a summit racing universal oil relocation kit, but the threads that are supposed to fit on the oil filter nipple are not the right thread size. I believe there all american thread sizes.
Do you guys know of a good oil relocation kit to use for our cars and where I can get it.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Do you guys know of a good oil relocation kit to use for our cars and where I can get it.
Thanks for any help you can give.
The best one I have found is the Canton Racing Block Adapter (20 mm thread, but confirm that size when you order) with a filter adapter of your choice. I use the Canton Racing Cannister filter. Canton also makes spin-on filter adapters. Of course you will need some 10AN braided steel hose with connectors between the filter and block adapter.
Warning! Be sure that you route the hose from the output of the block adapter to the remote filter correctly. If you use a remote filter with a check valve (i.e. standard screw on filter), it is possible to starve the motor of oil. The reason I know this -- I had a cheap block adapter with MISLABELED arrows.
[URL=http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html]90
Warning! Be sure that you route the hose from the output of the block adapter to the remote filter correctly. If you use a remote filter with a check valve (i.e. standard screw on filter), it is possible to starve the motor of oil. The reason I know this -- I had a cheap block adapter with MISLABELED arrows.
[URL=http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/remote_filter.html]90
The ultimate racing kit is a little over priced at $250, but I quess that what you have to pay to get a kit specifically for the car.
The Canton deal sounds good I'll probally call them monday and see if they can help me out.
I also found a Greedy Universal kit. Has any one used this kit with any success?
Thanks for the help.
The Canton deal sounds good I'll probally call them monday and see if they can help me out.
I also found a Greedy Universal kit. Has any one used this kit with any success?
Thanks for the help.
Permacool makes a kit, as do many other companies. The one thing I would HIGLY recommend is to take all the lines and fittings and replace them with braided line and A/N fittings. We've seen some serious destruction to some engines when a mishap driving around town occurs and a line pops off draining the oil from the motor while the driver has no clue that its happening. The reason this happens is because those kits normally just use rubber line and hose clamps, not what I would want holding together such a vital component. They do this to keep the cost down, its extremely inexpensive. The Permacool Kit is also a fraction of that price, it might be $40, so with the money you save, you can go get the fittings and line and still be under half the price of that UR kit. $250 for an oil filter relocation kit is a joke, plain and simple.
You make a good point about the braided lines, Sleeping Talon. I wasn't even thinking about that. That would suck if after I finally get the car turbo charged and running properly, a line pops off and there goes a lot of money draining on the asphalt as I drive away. All the while am unaware my engine is about to suffer a serious blow.
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
Trending Topics
I ended up running -8 for now, I'm wondering if they are too small. I don't have an oil pressure sensor to hook up to the dash right, now, but once I do I'll find out if the pressure is too high.
One negative to running the -8 is that I'm getting winding noise that corresponds to RPM, it is basically the sound of fluid pressure moving around. Although, the noise only comes on once the fluid is warmed up and up to proper viscosity. It is silent under cold start conditions when the oil has less viscosity.
Even though the sound is somewhat annoying, I at least have an audible indicator that fluid is moving around and I also know when the oil is up to temp before getting on it.
did you guys eliminate the sandwich oil cooler as well, or kept it on the system?
One negative to running the -8 is that I'm getting winding noise that corresponds to RPM, it is basically the sound of fluid pressure moving around. Although, the noise only comes on once the fluid is warmed up and up to proper viscosity. It is silent under cold start conditions when the oil has less viscosity.
Even though the sound is somewhat annoying, I at least have an audible indicator that fluid is moving around and I also know when the oil is up to temp before getting on it.
did you guys eliminate the sandwich oil cooler as well, or kept it on the system?






