Hit up Touge_s2k he is the one who makes them. Here is one of his old for sale threads
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/944..._fromsearch__1


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I get what you are saying. Its not that I cant figure it out, but I dont have the crank tools so I was trying to find someone to do it that had the tools to get the pulley off. And, I dont have all the torque specs and sequences. Back when I worked at dealerships, I had access to all that stuff for free, but Ive been in Aerospace now for a few years so no more free stuff.

That pan was already sold to someone else. I decided yesterday with everyones recommendations to just buy a BAWSS timing cover and keep my stocker as an extra in case I ever decide to go back stock once Im done. The timing cover is on the way and should be here next week.

If any of you guys have the specs/sequences (service manual scans?)for the oil pan and timing cover, feel free to share them with me! Do you know where I can get the crank pulley tool for cheap? If so, I can do it myself. Otherwise, I may get S2k manic or 00Mugen to do it for me.

Thanks for the help everyone!


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You work in Aerospace but you can't pony up $60-80 for a factory service manual with the torque specs, or find the ap1 manual that is floating around? C'mon man.

 

@spets

I found the ap1 manual as I specified in my last post on this thread. And yes, I work in Aerospace/Aviation and I haven't ponied up the $60-80 for the manual. I had no reason to when I bought the car because I didn't plan on doing anything to it myself. I hadn't even changed my own oil in years until I got this car. I got burnt out working on cars back in the day, but have since regained that "interest" I once had. This car has brought me back.

In about two weeks, I have 9 days off because we are shutting down to roll out new software company wide. I'm trying to get everything sorted and learned that I can right now because that will be the only time in the near future that I will have to do anything to the car, unless I take sick/vacation time, because I will be right back to 7 day work weeks.

Thanks to everyone that has helped me and continues to help me. Your assistance is greatly appreciated

 

No thats not fine and will eventually give you problems. Too many of us have had issues with it being there. Maybe if your WOT and all the OIL is in the back of the pan or you take a hard right turn but regular driving and sitting still, no way. Girdle, front/drivers side oil pan, or timing chain cover.

 

Exactly , track cars are one thing, street cars are another.

What about sitting on in incline? and consistently driving up and down hills? These are the things people don't think about. A street driven car encounters much different situations.

 

I've always wondered how well some factory oil returns worked out as some are deep in the oil pan.

 

They work just fine... the oil level in the drain line is at the same level as the oil level in the pan. As the drain line picks up more oil from the turbo, it will flow into the pan to maintain the same oil level in both places.

 

Sometimes I wonder if those that freak out about oil drain line placement have ever checked their oil level while the car is running ;-)

 

I suspected this to be the case when I was thinking about it, but I didnt feel like being lit of fire

 

I'm sure the oil pan spot will 'work'- I had the girdle tapped at first. It worked, but the girdle is so thin, and tapping that spot was really hard. I got it, but the stiff hose (he he) would loosen the 90 fitting when connected up to the turbo.

But in the pic above- there is are real nice 2-bolt connector, probably with an o-ring in the center. The front cover is so nice because it's a great location- the oil pan side is just too crowded to work around... look at that picture again- the clearance, no dump tube, no suspension, nice straight braided hose with an aluminum end fitting.

Swapping out the front cover with one that already has a -10AN bung welded in the perfect location?