Hondata flashpro since it's a DBW car. All I've been attempting to do was run a stage 2 SOS supercharger, 3.4-3.6" pulley (12-14psi here in PA) reliably, and track it 3-5 times over the summer months. I attend the track night in america events where it's 3, 20 minute track sessions per day. I have all of the absolute best cooling, oiling, etc parts available and I'm still having these troubles.

 

I'm so sorry about what is happening to you. Your best bet is to buy a stock Long block and call it a day especially with the power you are aiming for. I was on the fence on building my engine that dropped a valve and ended up just buying a motor. Truth is nothing will beat the reliability of a stock block motor. Especially a f series.

 

@Dizings2k Are you running stock displacement (2.2L)? From the combustion chamber and piston top photos, they look pretty stock. Unless you are running race fuel, that sort of boost is pretty tough on the track IMO.

 

What does the spark plug look like? Did the porcelain break? That damage is from foreign material. If the rings touched and broke you'd see a lot more piston damage.

 

So sorry you have spent all that $$$. Has ILP covered the replacement blocks or has each block been out of your own pocket?

 

ILP needs to give some $s back !

 

Wow that looks almost identical to the damage that happened to my (at the time) stock motor! In my case, it was cylinder 4 running lean (I think) that caused the ceramic portion of the spark plug to break off inside the cylinder, causing damage almost identical to the damage you have there. I have since had the block built by Golden Eagle running ILP's F24 stroker kit, and the head also running their Stage 2 package, but it's been solid so far, I think in particular due to the block not being built or assembled by them in any way.

 

It is stock-ish displacement. They honed the cylinders slightly oversized and used I believe 87.5mm pistons... so it'd be like 2.21L or something like that. Evans told me it was tuned conservatively and on track days if I really wanted peace of mind that I could throw a gallon or two of 100 oct. fuel in it just to be safe, which I always did. AFRs were always within safe range, spark plugs look perfect with zero signs of detonation.

 

This is what has perplexed me. The spark plug is 100% intact. I'll post a pic of it later. The plug itself is very sooted/porcelain darkened from the cylinder not sealing so much but otherwise 100% intact. Also, all the plugs in other cylinders in general look perfect. Zero signs of detonation and excellent timing marks on the strap.

I also thought this could be foreign stuff into the motor but if it did some from upstream in the intake how did it possibly *only* effect cylinder 3?

Also the inside of the intake valves on the cylinder head are perfect. Zero signs of anything entering through there.

 

I wouldnt call what you're experiencing a build error, but it really needs to be torn down to see the pistons.

cylinder 3 sees more air because of the way the manifold is designed. If you put individual widebands on the cylinders youd see #3 runs leaner. This is why when people have issues 90% of the time its on #3.

Why yours only shows foreign debris on that one cylinder I cannot answer.

Is that a bored FRM block? Ive been building these for awhile. Just a suggestion, stay away from boring/honing FRM liners. I've never seen them last. Sleeve it or find a block with good bores.