Kraftwerks C38-91 on 91 octane
I bought the KW kit with the C38-91 compressor from Moddiction during the group buy. I have been watching this thread with much interest for a couple of years and finally decided that the KW v2 kit was the best for me. The SOS kit is also a very nice kit and I got close to buying that one before ordering the KW kit. I wanted to make 400 whp using 91 octane (93 octane is not generally available here) and run it on the track. I felt that the Rotrex compressor and intercooler were better suited for this. I also don't like the Paxton gear noise.
I requested (and CJ provided) an intercooler without the Kraftwerks logo. I painted the front of intercooler black with Eastwood radiator paint. This paint is thinner than most and goes into the fins easily if you aim the spray can from various angles and do several coats. One can is enough.
Like some others, my kit had a wrong part, but CJ overnighted the right one before I needed it for the installation. I did the installation myself (with occasional help from my wife). The installation was pretty straight forward and went in well.
I already had Wasp brake ducts and since I track the car I decided to add a Mocal 25 row oil cooler at the same time I installed the SC kit.
See the pictures below for detail of the oil cooler and brake duct installation.
I ran the oil cooler lines though the hole near the top of the radiator on the passenger side. The KW instructions say to install the Rotrex oil filter in this area. I zip tied it to the cross member below the compressor like the TTS kit does.
When I put the brake ducts in, I intentionally put them as high as possible in anticipation of installing a supercharger. With the 2.5 inch brake duct hose in this location, the KW piping went in with no issues.
Specs:
Engine: Stock AP2 ('06 DBW)
S/C kit: Kraftwerks V2 with Rotrex C38-91 blower
Engine management: Hondata Flashpro
Exhaust: Stock header and exhaust, test pipe
Fuel: 91 octane pump gas
Clutch: ACT HD pressure plate, OEM friction disk
Tuner: Modified by KC
Boost: 12.5 PSI
Power: 407 whp
Dyno: Dynojet
Others are reporting 15+ PSI with this kit / blower. I know I have at least one leak at the coupler that connects to the intake manifold.

Overall view of the oil cooler installation.

Close-up of the oil cooler installation. The cooler is mounted using two pieces of aluminium angle stock bolted together to make a C channel which was then bolted to the car and to the cooler on the far right side of the picture. The top of the cooler near the center of the car is supported by a bracket made of sheet metal.

Passenger side brake duct with intercooler piping.

Driver side brake duct with intercooler piping.
I requested (and CJ provided) an intercooler without the Kraftwerks logo. I painted the front of intercooler black with Eastwood radiator paint. This paint is thinner than most and goes into the fins easily if you aim the spray can from various angles and do several coats. One can is enough.
Like some others, my kit had a wrong part, but CJ overnighted the right one before I needed it for the installation. I did the installation myself (with occasional help from my wife). The installation was pretty straight forward and went in well.
I already had Wasp brake ducts and since I track the car I decided to add a Mocal 25 row oil cooler at the same time I installed the SC kit.
See the pictures below for detail of the oil cooler and brake duct installation.
I ran the oil cooler lines though the hole near the top of the radiator on the passenger side. The KW instructions say to install the Rotrex oil filter in this area. I zip tied it to the cross member below the compressor like the TTS kit does.
When I put the brake ducts in, I intentionally put them as high as possible in anticipation of installing a supercharger. With the 2.5 inch brake duct hose in this location, the KW piping went in with no issues.
Specs:
Engine: Stock AP2 ('06 DBW)
S/C kit: Kraftwerks V2 with Rotrex C38-91 blower
Engine management: Hondata Flashpro
Exhaust: Stock header and exhaust, test pipe
Fuel: 91 octane pump gas
Clutch: ACT HD pressure plate, OEM friction disk
Tuner: Modified by KC
Boost: 12.5 PSI
Power: 407 whp
Dyno: Dynojet
Others are reporting 15+ PSI with this kit / blower. I know I have at least one leak at the coupler that connects to the intake manifold.

Overall view of the oil cooler installation.

Close-up of the oil cooler installation. The cooler is mounted using two pieces of aluminium angle stock bolted together to make a C channel which was then bolted to the car and to the cooler on the far right side of the picture. The top of the cooler near the center of the car is supported by a bracket made of sheet metal.

Passenger side brake duct with intercooler piping.

Driver side brake duct with intercooler piping.
Awesome setup! Wish I had the time and knowledge to install ducts and an oil cooler but then again I don't track much. Two things that were cool: the wife helping with install (wow!) and KW overnighting the wrong parts. Good for you!
Congrats man!
Though I do find it funny that it was a HUGE "to do" when I asked for things to be overnighted to get my car back on the road faster, but I had to pay the difference in shipping for that to happen. While in your case, the part you needed was overnighted without batting an eye.
Oh well, maybe my ordeal was the eye opener for them to realize that the little extra they could spend in shipping (compared to the 5k+ we spent on the kit) to make things right goes a long way in making the customer happy in the end.
Though I do find it funny that it was a HUGE "to do" when I asked for things to be overnighted to get my car back on the road faster, but I had to pay the difference in shipping for that to happen. While in your case, the part you needed was overnighted without batting an eye.
Oh well, maybe my ordeal was the eye opener for them to realize that the little extra they could spend in shipping (compared to the 5k+ we spent on the kit) to make things right goes a long way in making the customer happy in the end.
The first cooler had a leak. I ordered another one and am in the process of returning the first for a refund.
Originally Posted by Habitforming' timestamp='1434334087' post='23648294
Excellent setup. I was looking at the wasp ducts before but decided they wouldn't fit. Looks like I was wrong.
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
The first cooler had a leak. I ordered another one and am in the process of returning the first for a refund.
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Originally Posted by beechx1' timestamp='1434339946' post='23648335
[quote name='Habitforming' timestamp='1434334087' post='23648294']
Excellent setup. I was looking at the wasp ducts before but decided they wouldn't fit. Looks like I was wrong.
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
Excellent setup. I was looking at the wasp ducts before but decided they wouldn't fit. Looks like I was wrong.
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
The first cooler had a leak. I ordered another one and am in the process of returning the first for a refund.
[/quote]
I used the following from the Racer Parts Wholesale catalog:
Oil cooler: Mocal 25 row with AN-10 fittings MOC-25210
Sandwich plate: Mocal thermostatic 20mm MOC-SP1FT
Sandwich plate fittings: 1/2" X AN-10 MOC-2BM810A (These come two to a package - you need one package.)
Hose fittings: Mocal straight socketless AN-10 MOC-RS-10 (These are the red/blue ones that I used, they also come in black. You need 4 of these.)
Hose: Aeroquip AN-10 socketless hose AER FBN-1000 (This is the black hose that I used, it also comes in blue. You need 10' but measure to make sure before you order.)
I put the sandwich plate on with the factory oil warmer.
Make sure you cut the hose ends square. I used a hack saw with the hose loosely clamped in a vise and cut along the edge of the jaws.
The socketless fittings and hose go together nicely if you heat the hose ends with a paint stripper / heat gun before sliding the ends on.
The aluminum angle stock, sheet metal and bolts for mounting are from the local hardware store.
Originally Posted by Habitforming' timestamp='1434390149' post='23648930
[quote name='beechx1' timestamp='1434339946' post='23648335']
[quote name='Habitforming' timestamp='1434334087' post='23648294']
Excellent setup. I was looking at the wasp ducts before but decided they wouldn't fit. Looks like I was wrong.
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
[quote name='Habitforming' timestamp='1434334087' post='23648294']
Excellent setup. I was looking at the wasp ducts before but decided they wouldn't fit. Looks like I was wrong.
Where did you order the oil cooler from?
The first cooler had a leak. I ordered another one and am in the process of returning the first for a refund.
[/quote]
I used the following from the Racer Parts Wholesale catalog:
Oil cooler: Mocal 25 row with AN-10 fittings MOC-25210
Sandwich plate: Mocal thermostatic 20mm MOC-SP1FT
Sandwich plate fittings: 1/2" X AN-10 MOC-2BM810A (These come two to a package - you need one package.)
Hose fittings: Mocal straight socketless AN-10 MOC-RS-10 (These are the red/blue ones that I used, they also come in black. You need 4 of these.)
Hose: Aeroquip AN-10 socketless hose AER FBN-1000 (This is the black hose that I used, it also comes in blue. You need 10' but measure to make sure before you order.)
I put the sandwich plate on with the factory oil warmer.
Make sure you cut the hose ends square. I used a hack saw with the hose loosely clamped in a vise and cut along the edge of the jaws.
The socketless fittings and hose go together nicely if you heat the hose ends with a paint stripper / heat gun before sliding the ends on.
The aluminum angle stock, sheet metal and bolts for mounting are from the local hardware store.
[/quote]
More than I could have asked for, thanks so much for all the details!







