Nothing major here, just wanted to share some pictures some may leverage ideas from.

My track oil temps were 260-280F using a Setrab 625 oil cooler & a Mocal thermostatic adapter. I ended up getting ditching the 180 thermo adapter and getting a straight sandwich adapter (I believe the Mocal was faulty but havent had time to check it). Also purchased the largest oil cooler possible, the Fluidyne DB-30618.



These come with AN12 fittings only. Had to use a adapter. Fit just right


Top down view. I wish the AC canister wasnt in the way, would love to run a V-mount setup


Behind SOS heat xchanger - same width essentially




Back to the blower. To increase efficiency I swapped my BOV & WG locations. The BOV is now at the most ideal location, right before the TB. And the WG is bleeding off residual boost before going to the aftercooler.




Had to remove my old BOV flange and weld the WG flange. Note Tial only sells steel flanges. Was lucky enough to find a shop selling AL versions


While I was at it, also decided to relocate the IAT to reflect true temps. I have a toggle switch to turn on/off the water pump. I noticed with the pump off, the IAT sensor would heat soak to underhood temps (130F) pretty quick. The minute I switch on the pump, the IATs drop to within 15 degrees of ambient temp

Welded a 1/8" NPT bung




Ran a die thru my IAT. (nothing beats a threaded seal). The photo below was a trial run. I ended up purchasing a new IAT and made flats to the round portion of the sensor. I was able to use a 18mm socket to the flats I grounded to thread it in.



The IAT sensor harness was plenty long to reach anywhere I desired. Needed to watch for hood clearance when installing the IAT bung.










After all was done, I did run back to the dyno. My boost kept falling off around 7k RPM @ ~12 PSI. We believe there's a coupler leaking somewhere. Need to run a leak test and try again.

Sorry for the poor quality pictures, I only had the phone at the time.

 

Im interested to see the changes all of this brings.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

 

Looks like a pretty large blower pulley...what are you running?

How are your coolant temps with the full blown radiator?

Looks like a tight fit for the thick oil cooler and heat exchanger. Did you have to ditch the plastic grill pieces on the bumper? I question the efficiency of the oil cooler since it will rely on air to travel directly through the heat exhanger. Perhaps small diameter fans on the back of the oil cooler will be needed...?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

 

I'm running a 4" blower pulley & 8" crank. It's a 10-rib pulley (no more belt slippage ). Some pics of it here https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/103...y-setup-wpics/

I'm running the ASM style front bumper. The front opening happens to be the exact size of the heat exchanger. On my previous (smaller) Setrab oil cooler, I did run a Spal fan behind the cooler. I wasn't able to measure any perceivable gains so I opted not to reinstall the fan this go-around.

Up to now, I've been relying on my stock gauge for coolant temps. It's always been around the 5-bar mark on the street & track. I have since picked up a scangauge to monitor my water & IAT. Thus far, it's been reading 202F peak on the street. I do run a front license plate, and it does block the bumper opening - I'm hoping there's some more efficiencies to gain there as well. I haven't done a trackday yet this year and I've very anxious to see what my water temps really are!

 

Always good to see new stuff from you Arax, still pushing the envelope and coming up with new possibilities.

I can't believe you can stand the Tial Q noise at cruise RPM. I'd have to be deaf or have open headers to put up with that.

You should really consider a front plate relocation bracket to allow direct airflow into your bumper opening.

 

The Tial Q is obnoxious. I only run the blower at the track and remove the belt when on the street. Afterall, I don't need 400whp to go to the grocery store and to work Mainly because everything is too damn loud.

I'm looking forward to hear feedback on the new Tial QRJ

Question - on my last couple dyno pulls, the boost fell from 11 psi to near 2-3 PSI. We're thinking this is a coupler leak somewhere. Does anyone know what a boost leak plot looks like? Mine fell almost exponentially from 11 to 3 in a nice smooth but sharp downward curve.

I would've thought the boost would leak from 11 to say 9 psi (where the seal threshold is just as an example) and not down to near 0 psi?

 

How can it even be possible to have a boost leak with this sos kit. The silicone hoses are short...nothing is awkard.. I would have to assume the BOV or WG is not working properly.

 

We bypassed the WG (which has a 11.6 psi spring). The boost still fell below the spring rate, so we exonerated the WG being faulty.

The BOV was not purging any boost during the pull; it would be very audible. We didnt hear anything out of the ordinary.

It was strange. When we let the car cool down, it would make 1 good pull and not leak. When doing a pull immediately thereafter, the boost would drop during the tail end. It appears to be heat related (?)

The couplers holding the BOV piping may be loose. I think I see the BOV pipe slide back a bit. I haven't touched/re tightened anything yet to preserve the current configuration. Will do a leak test to see if I have a bad connection somewhere. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas

 

Check the oring on the BOV, those tial ones can be a PITA

Check the belt tension as well as the pulley key on the blower and the crank pulley.

 

Good point, I'll check both o-rings on the BOV. I've installed/removed the oring between the flange several times, it may have lost it's 'cushion'