Hey guys just got all my parts in for my block but was wondering if i should o-ring the block heres what i have
darton sleeved (without block guard)
88mm 9-1 cp pistons
Bc h-beam rods
acl bearings
arp head studs
cosworth 88mm headgasket .89
and for the head ap2 retainer
And another thing i cant pull up mases website and was wanting that kit but cant get a hold of that guy.

 

depends on the power levels you are shooting for bro.

its gonna cost ya some more at the machine shop for the head and block to be machined.

i would say, if you are aiming for 6xx, you can get away with your setup the way it is. but more than that.... o-ringing it would be a sound decision.

why did you decide to pass on the block guard? i mean the sleeves are sweet, but while its all being assembled, spend the extra 200 and get the mid or top deck guard.

sounds like good setup though. should hold up well. now make sure every other component in the bay is built up just like that, and you'll get some life out of that thing.

 

Thanks for the advice my hp goal is anything over 500.. and supertech makes a block guard for 100 that im thinking about getting.. and for the engine bay really want to go with maces kit and sell my old one.

 

when you get the guard installed, they will have to "true-up" the cyls because they tend to warp slightly from the guard being pressed into place. should be able to just get away with a simple line bore and hone though.

good luck on the setup, sounds like you have your ducks in a row when it comes to building and parts.

 

Thanks man.. all thanks to everyone on s2ki now gotta get a hold of mase

 

what? why would you install a block guard on a sleeved motor that is not meant to have the block guard there? the darton sleeves will handle TIWCE the power you are looking to run, no need for a block guard.
An OEM HG is cheap and does the job, does a great job at that. Use an OEM gasket.
And I know others will beg to differ, but I still believe on OEM bearings only. I'm not a fan of the "one size fits all" thing, leaving some bearing clearances tighter and looser than others.

 

^so you've correctly used and understood the ways of a plasti-guage and you have every size of bearing top and bottom for the rods and crank fresh, unused and sitting around your house to be set and torqued into place for bearing measuring and fitment????

if not a yes to all of those, you cannot accurately get oem bearings unless you have a shop that can answer all of those with a "yes" as well. thats is whats required.

ACL race bearings are fantastic upgrades if your oem ones were ruined or taken apart.

mrgsr-
C'mon bro. get with the times.
look at any AEBS or most Benson blocks... mid sleeves with a block guard. dont know why his didnt have it from darton. this is the way you should have it done:
http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show....php?t=2382031
holy hell, if youre gonna build it, build it to the hill. dont skimp out anywhere when the engine is apart.

 

In my opinion if I want 500whp I would do:

Stock sleeves
Mahle pistons
Brian Crower Rods
ACL Race bearings
Golden Eagle head gasket
ARP Head studs
Brian Crower Dual springs & retainers

You can make 650whp with this no problems.


Fernando @ Kings Performance

 

i wanna see more people trying the mahle pistons with the stock sleeves

 

installing mine tomororw