Not accelerating @ boost
#2
I suggest you start with the simple things. Since it shows no boost you must have a boost leak. Check all connections on the intake and all vacuum lines to the intake manifold.
To see boost you must have it floored and be going for it with the rpms up. You won't see boost just reving it.
Whack the map sensor and try again.
The vacuum line from the fuel regulator to the intake manifold should have other vacuum lines t'd off of it. Mine has one to the boost gauge (most would go to the FMU) and one to the blow off valve. There is one vacuum line that tends to come off near the rear of the intake manifold.
To see boost you must have it floored and be going for it with the rpms up. You won't see boost just reving it.
Whack the map sensor and try again.
The vacuum line from the fuel regulator to the intake manifold should have other vacuum lines t'd off of it. Mine has one to the boost gauge (most would go to the FMU) and one to the blow off valve. There is one vacuum line that tends to come off near the rear of the intake manifold.
#4
The MAP whack yields instant gratification. An ECU reset would never hurt in clearing out any retards currently in play.
You may be chasing your own tail here. It is necessary to give it full throttle to see boost. You can not wimp out on the accelerator. Some of the boost gauges read in 100kPa or atmospheres and the needle movement will be small at 2 or 4 lbs of boost.
Check your belt to make sure it is tight. The belts tend to loosten up after a couple of hours and definately require tightening before 10 hours. Make sure you have a problem before fixing it.
Make sure you close the gap down a little on the plugs. It is probably not necessary to change them. I ran IK22s for over 3 years and never looked at them. I just installed IK24s just because I had them. The factory heat range works fine but the gap must be closed down to 0.035 inches or less to give best results.
You may be chasing your own tail here. It is necessary to give it full throttle to see boost. You can not wimp out on the accelerator. Some of the boost gauges read in 100kPa or atmospheres and the needle movement will be small at 2 or 4 lbs of boost.
Check your belt to make sure it is tight. The belts tend to loosten up after a couple of hours and definately require tightening before 10 hours. Make sure you have a problem before fixing it.
Make sure you close the gap down a little on the plugs. It is probably not necessary to change them. I ran IK22s for over 3 years and never looked at them. I just installed IK24s just because I had them. The factory heat range works fine but the gap must be closed down to 0.035 inches or less to give best results.
#6
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The fuel pump meter gets stuck and shows you have fuel when infact it is empty. That happen to me and when I got into boost it felt like it was going to pull and then nothing.
#7
Originally Posted by Patrick Jamex,Oct 19 2004, 08:38 AM
When I reach 0+ PSI, it still holds back. I pushed a little bit more (floored it) and saw about 1 PSI max. PSI will probably climb when I floor it longer(?)
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#9
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when you installed your boost guage did you make sure you did not kink the line to the guage, also where did you put the t joint to the boost guage..i made that mistake the first time..
i sure hope you broke in the charger before you worked it at all..
i sure hope you broke in the charger before you worked it at all..
#10
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Everything seems okay, no kink and the "T" is at the same place everyone mounts it.
What do you mean with:
"i sure hope you broke in the charger before you worked it at all.."
I didn
What do you mean with:
"i sure hope you broke in the charger before you worked it at all.."
I didn