Hello Folks,

I am taking the slow and careful process of installing a turbo. I did go with a budget CXRacing kit, didnt see any HUGE red flags with this kit and the price is hard to beat. NO im not expecting it to be awesome or perfect, but im handy enough to take care of what needs to be fixed.... ANYWHO

I am wondering where the best oil and water lines should come from and go to on the car. I have seen a good amount of conflicting info. I am not relocating the oil filter and am still on the stock oil "cooler".

 

I have this kit. I use a tee at the OEM oil switch that feeds the turbo. I use one of these for the water line, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-s2000...2/282371018203 since you are using the OEM oil cooler you could tee into one of those rubber lines. I ditched the OEM oil cooler for an external oil cooler and use the water hard line that is on the front of the timing cover to feed the turbo.

Attachment 143591

 

Because of my turbo location, I take the water lines off the outlet of the heater core.

 

Sry to thread jack, but this is a great solution for a water feed. Why is this option not widely pursed?
I have been looking into this my self for cleaning up my current turbo coolant feed setup, however, I have a slight concern about aluminum threads on aluminium threads. Any issues w. this setup thus far? Did you strip the threads in the block while removing the OEM plug? Would you of opted for a steel plug option if one was available?

Btw, I think the hard line in front of the block is a return line to the water pump, since the block is pressurized by the pump. Someone double check me?

 

I’m doing this:

coolant feed coming off the intake manifold port into the low port on turbo (inlet). high port on turbo (exit) into the throttle body port

 

I would think you have some HOT HOT coolant circulating thru your TB & IAC.
Have you considered coming out of the turbo, & going straight to the water pump?

 

Not sure. I’ve been running it like that for a couple years though and seems to be working well. Going straight to the pump would probably be good too; I just did it this way from the advice of several other ppl.

 

No issues.

No I didn't strip the threads removing the oem plug, Honda didn't over torque the plug to begin with.

I don't see why steel would be an advantage here, there is no issue with galling.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I'm assuming you used less torque on the plug since the threads are weaker? & can you elaborate on why galling is not an issue, I would think it would be since its aluminum on aluminum.
This is why I would of liked to see a steel option, or at least a slightly undersized thread, that's hard coat anodized to size, to prevent galling.

 

You just don't over torque it, nothing magical about it. No need to over think it.