I was browsing ebay for the AFI Turbo manifold and I came across a PFab top mount manifold. I went on their site to check some things out and their prices seem alot lower than your average Full Race or Inline pro setup.

Anyone have any experience with their products?

http://www.pfabrications.com/s2000

 

just finished a car with the top mount - couple of concerns i did not like
down pipe was tight fit on hard 90 out of turbo down past frame & block, had to relocate ac lines and battery and heater control valve, repostion fuse box, plumbing for compressed air was a PIA and did not like the way it looked, turbo was real close to valve cover and hood when shut - heat to hood is concern for paint, and it did not make the power we expected. but that my have been turbo (talk customer into a 3076 so it should be 450+)

go with inline pro - it works, looks good

 

ya that is pang's company from denver. He is actually a member here as well. From what I hear mainly from Timg he has done some excellent work for him.

 

He did reweld my manifold and it's been solid since.

There are a lot of people running P-Fab log manifolds. I haven't seen many running his tubular top mount.

The 90 degree bend is a requirement for any top mounts in that position.

I have a very similar top mount. I have not relocated anything other than my oil filter (and PFab's kit doesn't even require that). Mine did require a cut into the underside of the hood supports, but it was a one off. My downpipe is tighter than tight, it actually required some 'massaging' to fit and it's still not perfect. Keep in mind, my setup is NOT from PFab, although he did help me out when it cracked. It was a one off from another guy around the Denver area.

Tim

 

i had that setup, and it ran flawless pretty much for around 30k, it had its nicknacks here and there, but what kit doesnt?/? i was happy.

 

Correct. Most other kits require a 90 degree bend straight off the turbo, even bottom mounts. Pretty simple to do, 90 degree high temp silicone coupler or fab an aluminum 90 elbow to the compress. housing (which is done in our kits).

Here are couple pics of the compressor mod.
Compressor mod with 90 elbow to use a straight coupler.

Closer pic of modded compress. housing, polished.


Ac lines doesnot require relocation, they can be rebent slighty to clear. Heater valve will need to be repostioned, not relocated (bracket is included with our kit). Fuse box does not require relocation, rotate it 90 degree and remount. Only the battery requires to be relocated. As with all other kits, heat has to be taken into consideration and shielded properly.


2big4aS2000 - which turbo are you guys using to cause this tight clearance? We have mounted GT4088R's and not have valve cover/hood clearance issues.

Are you from 2nerworks in FL? I remember an email from you guys requesting about a dealer account.

Hope that answers the questions. Mods please contact me if I need to edit.

 

yes i am from 2nrwerks, it was a big nasty turbo from a diesel truck (customer supplied parts). that is why we did not make the power we expected, but it is ready for anything with the 4 bolt on center downpipe, i expect 450+ just with the change of turbo and tune, it is a built low compression motor so it is ready - the motor can handle 30+lbs so we are limited to turbo, fuel and manifold flow.

 

Diesel truck turbo, that explains it. I cringe when customers bring me stuff like that... The log manifold has dyno proven to make 600whp with a 35r on a mustang dyno so with the right setup/tune, it'll work. Good luck to ya.

 

Thanks for the input guys. This helps out alot.

Now with the PFab top mount manifold, and a gt35r, what is the proper ar to run for the turbo? .82 or .63?

 

I have the PFab top mount tubular and am only a couple weeks away from being up and running with a GT3076 with a .82 A/R... I'd say if you go GT35, then .63 A/R should suffice... IMO