Problem with Vortech SC
OK latest update:
I've just removed all the clips used for the electrical connections to the Vortech boxes and soldered them into the wiring.
Also measured the MAP voltage going to the ECU. It was about 1V at idle increasing up to +/- 2.5 volts at 8500RPM.
Took the car for another drive same problem, slight hesitation a 6000RPM then it takes of all the way to the red line
I tried accelerating at different throttle positions and the problem only seems to occur at WOT (full throttle)
I'm really running out of ideas
Can any one help please????????
I've just removed all the clips used for the electrical connections to the Vortech boxes and soldered them into the wiring.
Also measured the MAP voltage going to the ECU. It was about 1V at idle increasing up to +/- 2.5 volts at 8500RPM.
Took the car for another drive same problem, slight hesitation a 6000RPM then it takes of all the way to the red line
I tried accelerating at different throttle positions and the problem only seems to occur at WOT (full throttle)
I'm really running out of ideas
Can any one help please????????
Was sadly trying to think about this last night!
The only change you have made is the SC and the engine (so most of it!) From what you have done with the belt off you can rule out a few more things, that you have mentioned.
I guess you can rule out the fuel pump - maybe worth a check though.
It almost seems like a bit of belt slip as the S/C sees its biggest increase in torque at VTEC.
Is the FMU ok?
Can you measure your TPS voltage at closed and open? Should be pretty close to 0.5 and 4.5 respectively.
MB
The only change you have made is the SC and the engine (so most of it!) From what you have done with the belt off you can rule out a few more things, that you have mentioned.
I guess you can rule out the fuel pump - maybe worth a check though.
It almost seems like a bit of belt slip as the S/C sees its biggest increase in torque at VTEC.
Is the FMU ok?
Can you measure your TPS voltage at closed and open? Should be pretty close to 0.5 and 4.5 respectively.
MB
Thanks for the feedback Mark, it's nice to know someone cares!
I tightened the belt a little harder than I normally do and also checked all the pulleys were running true, it all seems OK.
I'll see if I can measure the TPS voltage because as I say I only seem to get the problem at WOT!
Trouble is I'm due to go for a DYNO on Sunday and I'm running out of time to fix this!
Kevin
I tightened the belt a little harder than I normally do and also checked all the pulleys were running true, it all seems OK.
I'll see if I can measure the TPS voltage because as I say I only seem to get the problem at WOT!
Trouble is I'm due to go for a DYNO on Sunday and I'm running out of time to fix this!
Kevin
I sent the following to:
info@vortechsuperchargers.com
Lets see how good their service is!
Hi Guys,
Could you please check the problem I'm having regarding my Vortech SC, your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=342744
Regards
Kevin
Office: +31 (0)70 3338215
Mobile: +31 (0)622 836196
info@vortechsuperchargers.com
Lets see how good their service is!
Hi Guys,
Could you please check the problem I'm having regarding my Vortech SC, your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=342744
Regards
Kevin
Office: +31 (0)70 3338215
Mobile: +31 (0)622 836196
The dyno may be what will help you solve this, so it might not be a bad thing if you don't figure it out by then.
The "hiccup" at 6K rpm is obviouly due to boost. What needs to change with boost?
-- More fuel, so look at the fuel pressure at the time of the hesitation. WOT would have the max demand on this as opposed to part throttle where the fuel pressure can manage more slowly.
-- The need for the ECU to have boost hidden from it. You've confirmed the wiring connections, so maybe a possible bad MAP clamp? Maybe a bad connection in the vacuum line to the Vortech MAP box? A leak? Too many "T's" off the same line? The MAP box has to be able to see the boost immediately and do its thing. If there is a leak, the reaction may be too slow. I typically get a small hiccup at the moment that the MAP box sees significant boost. For me, that can be anything between about 3500 to 4000 rpm, PLUS, it ONLY happens on the first drive of the day as the coolant temps are getting up to operating and ONLY at part throttle while coasting at constant speed. If I purposely make it slightly accelerate or decelerate during this "warm up" phase, I can make the engine forego this little glitch. I'm thinking your situation may be related in some way to the MAP box trying to intercede in hiding boost from the ECU -- except that yours is more insidious in that it does it every time you are at WOT and passing 6K.
I know this doesn't give you any solid answers, but perhaps it will inspire some additional creative thinking.
The "hiccup" at 6K rpm is obviouly due to boost. What needs to change with boost?
-- More fuel, so look at the fuel pressure at the time of the hesitation. WOT would have the max demand on this as opposed to part throttle where the fuel pressure can manage more slowly.
-- The need for the ECU to have boost hidden from it. You've confirmed the wiring connections, so maybe a possible bad MAP clamp? Maybe a bad connection in the vacuum line to the Vortech MAP box? A leak? Too many "T's" off the same line? The MAP box has to be able to see the boost immediately and do its thing. If there is a leak, the reaction may be too slow. I typically get a small hiccup at the moment that the MAP box sees significant boost. For me, that can be anything between about 3500 to 4000 rpm, PLUS, it ONLY happens on the first drive of the day as the coolant temps are getting up to operating and ONLY at part throttle while coasting at constant speed. If I purposely make it slightly accelerate or decelerate during this "warm up" phase, I can make the engine forego this little glitch. I'm thinking your situation may be related in some way to the MAP box trying to intercede in hiding boost from the ECU -- except that yours is more insidious in that it does it every time you are at WOT and passing 6K.
I know this doesn't give you any solid answers, but perhaps it will inspire some additional creative thinking.
Originally Posted by kstokell,Dec 7 2005, 10:14 AM
I sent the following to:
info@vortechsuperchargers.com
Lets see how good their service is!
Hi Guys,
Could you please check the problem I'm having regarding my Vortech SC, your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=342744
Regards
Kevin
Office: +31 (0)70 3338215
Mobile: +31 (0)622 836196
info@vortechsuperchargers.com
Lets see how good their service is!
Hi Guys,
Could you please check the problem I'm having regarding my Vortech SC, your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=342744
Regards
Kevin
Office: +31 (0)70 3338215
Mobile: +31 (0)622 836196
You may have to phone them. Emailing is pointless.
Thanks Xviper!
Creative thinking is what I need!!
My main worry is that all was OK for the first +/-100Km's after re-fitting the SC and problem only occurred later.
Also it is so consistent exactly 6000RPM only at WOT?
I'm really beginning to suspect the Vortech boxes.
Creative thinking is what I need!!
My main worry is that all was OK for the first +/-100Km's after re-fitting the SC and problem only occurred later.
Also it is so consistent exactly 6000RPM only at WOT?
I'm really beginning to suspect the Vortech boxes.
They responded to some of mine, with about 5 words. Totally unhelpful!
I mailed them to say my blower was leaking oil as id hooke up the supply and not the return. Gave them loads of info and asked what they thought was wrong.
The reply (3 times) was that the seals were blown and it needed to come in for overhaul.
I had no drawings but im a mechanical / rotating machinery engineer. I deduced they were talking crap and carried on. Hooked it all up and no leaks.
Great service.
MB
I mailed them to say my blower was leaking oil as id hooke up the supply and not the return. Gave them loads of info and asked what they thought was wrong.
The reply (3 times) was that the seals were blown and it needed to come in for overhaul.
I had no drawings but im a mechanical / rotating machinery engineer. I deduced they were talking crap and carried on. Hooked it all up and no leaks.
Great service.
MB



