Properly sized turbo for road racing/hpde reliability?
#1
Properly sized turbo for road racing/hpde reliability?
Looking for advice from the gurus around here.
I just picked up this car:
My link
I plan on using the car for some track events at miller motorsports park and the occasional commute to work / weekend drive.
Here is a quick mod list for those that don't want to scour the link:
PFab Twin Scroll Manifold
PFab 3” Downpipe
Garrett GT3582R Divided Turbo (Fresh Rebuild, has not been ran yet)
Tial 38mm Wastegate (2)
Mishimoto Intercooler (Black)
Synapse BOV
PTP Turbo Blanket
ID1000cc Injectors
Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
Hondata Boost Solenoid
Hondata Flashpro
I realize that the turbo (GT35) on this car is likely overkill, and I'm trying to decide what to do.
Options, in my mind are:
1.Remove/Sell the turbo kit-leave the car NA. (downside to this is there is so much work completed already and I fear it won't be much faster than my ITR =P.) Also, if anyone can ballpark what they think the turbo components are worth?
2.Sell the turbo kit for the SOS supercharger kit. Consensus seems to be that this is a much more reliable option and has much less issue with overheating.
3. Get a properly sized turbo-and shoot for the 300-400whp range, on 91 pump gas tune. I was thinking a GT3076 or potentially smaller. Is anyone out there tracking a similar turbo setup and able to manage the heat? The car has a mishimoto rad, but from the reading I've done it doesn't seem to help much. Considering the fact that the turbo mani is a twin scroll are there smaller turbos that will interface with that?
I currently own a 97' ITR that I've tracked for years, so this won't be my first track experience-but it will be my first RWD/forced induction car.
My ITR has been trouble free-but I've kept the build conservative (bolt-ons only) and focused mostly on reducing weight and reliability (baffled oil pan etc.)
Also, I have 2 other vehicles for daily drivers so it's ok if the S is down for repairs occasionally. I would like it to be as bombproof as possible however.
Thanks in advance for any input! Ideally I'm looking for people who have found reliable/conservative turbo setups.
I just picked up this car:
My link
I plan on using the car for some track events at miller motorsports park and the occasional commute to work / weekend drive.
Here is a quick mod list for those that don't want to scour the link:
PFab Twin Scroll Manifold
PFab 3” Downpipe
Garrett GT3582R Divided Turbo (Fresh Rebuild, has not been ran yet)
Tial 38mm Wastegate (2)
Mishimoto Intercooler (Black)
Synapse BOV
PTP Turbo Blanket
ID1000cc Injectors
Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
Hondata Boost Solenoid
Hondata Flashpro
I realize that the turbo (GT35) on this car is likely overkill, and I'm trying to decide what to do.
Options, in my mind are:
1.Remove/Sell the turbo kit-leave the car NA. (downside to this is there is so much work completed already and I fear it won't be much faster than my ITR =P.) Also, if anyone can ballpark what they think the turbo components are worth?
2.Sell the turbo kit for the SOS supercharger kit. Consensus seems to be that this is a much more reliable option and has much less issue with overheating.
3. Get a properly sized turbo-and shoot for the 300-400whp range, on 91 pump gas tune. I was thinking a GT3076 or potentially smaller. Is anyone out there tracking a similar turbo setup and able to manage the heat? The car has a mishimoto rad, but from the reading I've done it doesn't seem to help much. Considering the fact that the turbo mani is a twin scroll are there smaller turbos that will interface with that?
I currently own a 97' ITR that I've tracked for years, so this won't be my first track experience-but it will be my first RWD/forced induction car.
My ITR has been trouble free-but I've kept the build conservative (bolt-ons only) and focused mostly on reducing weight and reliability (baffled oil pan etc.)
Also, I have 2 other vehicles for daily drivers so it's ok if the S is down for repairs occasionally. I would like it to be as bombproof as possible however.
Thanks in advance for any input! Ideally I'm looking for people who have found reliable/conservative turbo setups.
#2
Bomb proof as possible, but FI. Ok, well that would be most any centrifugal blower kit then with large heat exchanger option. If you really want to keep things cool, insuring consistency and reliability for the road course, run a water/meth injection kit with it.
#3
Ok, any idea what the turbo parts would be worth? Hoping they would cover the SOS kit which is around $5K.. That might be a reach though.
#4
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1367984312' post='22527023
Bomb proof as possible, but FI. Ok, well that would be most any centrifugal blower kit then with large heat exchanger option. If you really want to keep things cool, insuring consistency and reliability for the road course, run a water/meth injection kit with it.
#7
Community Organizer
Get with Courtney Green. He is the man, also talk to Innovative Garage out at MMP. I had my S with a SOS kit for a WOW event last year and loved it. But that is nothing compared to a full day out there. Are you planning on running any events this year? I will be out at the June 23rd-24th event.
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#8
#9
[/quote]
Because he wants his car to be Road Course bullet proof/reliable. Not impossible to be done with a turbo, but odds are much more stacked against him and he will spend more money anyway trying to make it a reliable working system out there, still with no guarantee. Track days aren't cheap. Sucks when your car decides its done for the day, no refunds, and an expensive tow home. A SC is proven best for Road Course out of the box, with a couple basic upgrades depending on kit.
Besides, if i did run a turbo out there it would be a 30 rather then a 35 because it provides quicker spool and more mid range meat.
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: huntington long island
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[/quote]
im sorry but how is maintaining the sick kit he has now cheaper than buying a whole new super charger kit and installing everything, not to mention uninstalling all the turbo stuff, just seems like a lot of work and money to have a shittier set up, and no set up is bullet proof but if hes at the same power turbo or sc whats the difference?