Question regarding superchargers.
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[QUOTE=RED MX5,Dec 10 2007, 03:21 AM] If you're looking at a used kit with a 10psi pully, the kit doesn't have the standard sized pully, so you'll need injectors, ECU/EMS, and tuning.
As for the FMIC, you asked what I think, and I think they're more trouble than their worth, at least with the centrifigual blowers.
As for the FMIC, you asked what I think, and I think they're more trouble than their worth, at least with the centrifigual blowers.
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From: Dry Branch
Originally Posted by nightcrawler7188,Dec 10 2007, 02:30 AM
so my remaining questions are--is the FMIC on stock boost overkill? (i hear that you lose a lot of response with the big FMICs on stock boost, but some people tell me you don't 
) also, i really don't feel like doing any heavy tuning on my car, so i was wondering if the TP on even as low as stock boost would lean me out too much.
and also, how should i mod my diff to accomodate the new power along with the smaller FD gear?
thanks!
) also, i really don't feel like doing any heavy tuning on my car, so i was wondering if the TP on even as low as stock boost would lean me out too much.and also, how should i mod my diff to accomodate the new power along with the smaller FD gear?
thanks!
Unfortunately, I can't really offer much advice regarding either the FMIC or test pipe, other than what you already know. Reports of response issues with large FMIC setups at stock CTSC/VTSC boost levels have been inconsistent. In theory there will be greater internal volume than the standard aftercoolers, but your guess is as good as mine when it comes to how much of a problem it is in practice. Same situation with the test pipe. I'm unsure, so I wouldn't do it without a way to monitor the A/F. I would suspect that any A/F changes caused by using the test pipe would be within the range of adjustment of a Comptech FPU, but I'm not sure of that, and even less sure of what might be possible with the Vortech. Better to ask these questions in the FI forum.
As for the diff, there really isn't much you can do. The Comptech reinforcing straps may help a little, but I'm not sure they make a big difference. Every little bit helps though. There are other, tougher differentials that can be adapted to the car, but it's not a cheap proposition, and probaby overkill at the boost levels we're talking about here. Keep in mind that the car is not going to make vast amounts more power at lower revs, so below 4k it's pretty much like a stock setup. If you're not tearing up differentials with the stock power you *probably* won't have trouble at stock boost levels, as long as you stick with OEM tires. Big tires with big grip will put big stresses on the entire driveline, so it's like higher boost levels. Not the way to go if you want to keep things simple. Best way to keep the diff alive is to avoid abusing it.
LOL, with your gearing, redline in first is going to come up SO quickly!
You might want to consider putting a Modifry redline shift beeper in the car before you install the SC.
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Originally Posted by RED MX5,Dec 10 2007, 04:29 AM
Excuse my confusion.
Unfortunately, I can't really offer much advice regarding either the FMIC or test pipe, other than what you already know. Reports of response issues with large FMIC setups at stock CTSC/VTSC boost levels have been inconsistent. In theory there will be greater internal volume than the standard aftercoolers, but your guess is as good as mine when it comes to how much of a problem it is in practice. Same situation with the test pipe. I'm unsure, so I wouldn't do it without a way to monitor the A/F. I would suspect that any A/F changes caused by using the test pipe would be within the range of adjustment of a Comptech FPU, but I'm not sure of that, and even less sure of what might be possible with the Vortech. Better to ask these questions in the FI forum.
As for the diff, there really isn't much you can do. The Comptech reinforcing straps may help a little, but I'm not sure they make a big difference. Every little bit helps though. There are other, tougher differentials that can be adapted to the car, but it's not a cheap proposition, and probaby overkill at the boost levels we're talking about here. Keep in mind that the car is not going to make vast amounts more power at lower revs, so below 4k it's pretty much like a stock setup. If you're not tearing up differentials with the stock power you *probably* won't have trouble at stock boost levels, as long as you stick with OEM tires. Big tires with big grip will put big stresses on the entire driveline, so it's like higher boost levels. Not the way to go if you want to keep things simple. Best way to keep the diff alive is to avoid abusing it.
LOL, with your gearing, redline in first is going to come up SO quickly!
You might want to consider putting a Modifry redline shift beeper in the car before you install the SC.
Unfortunately, I can't really offer much advice regarding either the FMIC or test pipe, other than what you already know. Reports of response issues with large FMIC setups at stock CTSC/VTSC boost levels have been inconsistent. In theory there will be greater internal volume than the standard aftercoolers, but your guess is as good as mine when it comes to how much of a problem it is in practice. Same situation with the test pipe. I'm unsure, so I wouldn't do it without a way to monitor the A/F. I would suspect that any A/F changes caused by using the test pipe would be within the range of adjustment of a Comptech FPU, but I'm not sure of that, and even less sure of what might be possible with the Vortech. Better to ask these questions in the FI forum.
As for the diff, there really isn't much you can do. The Comptech reinforcing straps may help a little, but I'm not sure they make a big difference. Every little bit helps though. There are other, tougher differentials that can be adapted to the car, but it's not a cheap proposition, and probaby overkill at the boost levels we're talking about here. Keep in mind that the car is not going to make vast amounts more power at lower revs, so below 4k it's pretty much like a stock setup. If you're not tearing up differentials with the stock power you *probably* won't have trouble at stock boost levels, as long as you stick with OEM tires. Big tires with big grip will put big stresses on the entire driveline, so it's like higher boost levels. Not the way to go if you want to keep things simple. Best way to keep the diff alive is to avoid abusing it.
LOL, with your gearing, redline in first is going to come up SO quickly!
You might want to consider putting a Modifry redline shift beeper in the car before you install the SC.
once again, i'm really not looking for numbers. just looking to spank all the people out there who like to make fun of my car
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From: Huntsville, AL
Originally Posted by RED MX5,Dec 9 2007, 04:50 PM
You don't get the bottom end torque boost you can get with a turbo or PD blower,
200wtq pre Vtec
210wtq post vtec
thats on a mild tune with stock exhaust.
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Originally Posted by nightcrawler7188,Dec 10 2007, 01:00 PM
i am unaware of who ricky hatton is