quick s/c questions
How important is an aftercooler in achieving 300whp reliably?
I know most of you are very much against the supplied air-fuel chips that the S/C manufacturers supply. For a simple low powered (300whp) s/c kit what management unit would you suggest?
Do you think I could use the stock clutch for 20-30k miles? (I don't launch, generally very delicate with the car).
I know most of you are very much against the supplied air-fuel chips that the S/C manufacturers supply. For a simple low powered (300whp) s/c kit what management unit would you suggest?
Do you think I could use the stock clutch for 20-30k miles? (I don't launch, generally very delicate with the car).
I would not run a supercharger without an intercooler on this car, especially if you live in a hot climate. 11:1 comp + boost + hot air...detonation trifecta. If you track the car it will be the first and last time.
In a cold climate you could probably get away with it...but I still wouldn't do it. Compressed air out of the blower, even at idle, is HOT
Also, I don't think CT nor Vortech actually supply any "air fuel chips" (though Vortec's may be slightly more robust). SOS supplies a piggyback that clamps the MAP voltage, changes fuel maps, and changes VTEC...robust enough for ~300whp.
The standard rising rate FPR and MAP clamping is plenty reliable enough for 300whp. Actual electronics is better, and a standalone EMS is the best. But, RR FPRs are pretty reliable...they've been around forever.
The stock clutch probably won't last 20K miles. I do have 10K on mine and it is holding, but who knows for how long.
In a cold climate you could probably get away with it...but I still wouldn't do it. Compressed air out of the blower, even at idle, is HOT
Also, I don't think CT nor Vortech actually supply any "air fuel chips" (though Vortec's may be slightly more robust). SOS supplies a piggyback that clamps the MAP voltage, changes fuel maps, and changes VTEC...robust enough for ~300whp.
The standard rising rate FPR and MAP clamping is plenty reliable enough for 300whp. Actual electronics is better, and a standalone EMS is the best. But, RR FPRs are pretty reliable...they've been around forever.
The stock clutch probably won't last 20K miles. I do have 10K on mine and it is holding, but who knows for how long.
I had a CTSC non aftercooled for 60k miles right at 300rwhp, ZERO issues in southern california.
it was very reliable, but with out EMS or piggy back, you will not get a perfect tune. you will be ok with adjusting the fuel with the supplied FPR since it's rising rate, but it will only be good for stock boost, about 7lbs. I pushed my car very hard on a daily basis, taking it to the mountains and running it in second gear for an hour at a time. no issues, no detonation.
I still have my stock clutch with over 60k miles on my SCed setup, still grips like a champ. I do not launch, but like I said, it's a rare day when my car doesn't see 9k rpms.
I am now aftercooled as of 2 months ago, feels a lot better and will be going in for more boost after Wake The Dragon in April, shooting for 400, The clutch will definitely not last after that lol.
If you can find a complete kit, that would be best, but if you can't 300rwhp on non aftercooled will not be a problem. Anything above that, I highly recommend you do some type of cooling, be it AC or IC (I prefer and waited for an AC)
it was very reliable, but with out EMS or piggy back, you will not get a perfect tune. you will be ok with adjusting the fuel with the supplied FPR since it's rising rate, but it will only be good for stock boost, about 7lbs. I pushed my car very hard on a daily basis, taking it to the mountains and running it in second gear for an hour at a time. no issues, no detonation.
I still have my stock clutch with over 60k miles on my SCed setup, still grips like a champ. I do not launch, but like I said, it's a rare day when my car doesn't see 9k rpms.
I am now aftercooled as of 2 months ago, feels a lot better and will be going in for more boost after Wake The Dragon in April, shooting for 400, The clutch will definitely not last after that lol.
If you can find a complete kit, that would be best, but if you can't 300rwhp on non aftercooled will not be a problem. Anything above that, I highly recommend you do some type of cooling, be it AC or IC (I prefer and waited for an AC)
Several local guys here in Seattle blew their motors due to running no aftercooler on their comptech kits. Back in the day they weren’t supply with the kits, now you have a choice, choose wisely. My experience daily driving my own kit, its a very smart idea to have one, heat, detonation kills motors and you will run very high IAT without it, even at stock boost pressure. The rising rate fpr is reliable for up to 300hp. The afr tune won’t be as pretty as some other electronic engine management, but it will be safe. Get the base kit with Aftercooler and run it, then if you want down the road, up the boost and invest in some form of engine management.
If your clutch is in good condition, it will hold up to aprox 350whp/210trq I have found with my old f20 (this is typicasl power at 10psi) If you shift deliberetly it can last indefinetly. The added trq and weight of the flywheel in the ap2 will decrease the clutch life and holding copacity somewhat. But again, how you drive dictates a lot. If you plan on going over 10psi then plan on a clutch.
If your clutch is in good condition, it will hold up to aprox 350whp/210trq I have found with my old f20 (this is typicasl power at 10psi) If you shift deliberetly it can last indefinetly. The added trq and weight of the flywheel in the ap2 will decrease the clutch life and holding copacity somewhat. But again, how you drive dictates a lot. If you plan on going over 10psi then plan on a clutch.
I would say no its not safe. You will shorten the life of your motor over the long haul quicker, and the engine wont perform as consistently with wider fluctuations to driving input and weather, you will experience more heat soak, bogging etc. Water to air/ Aftercoolers are more effective with Superchargers becuase there is much less boost pressure loss(0.5psi). Air to air/FMIC are marginally better at cooling, but there is a much larger area to pressurize and more boost pressure is lost, typically in the 2-4psi range. For an SC the boost loss cant be overcome with the effect of better cooling like a turbo set up, the supercharger will over spin to compensate for the loss, creating more heat and diminishing returns as a result, not to mention the max speed of the blower is reached, so mechanically there is a point where you cant spin it any faster to compensate. General efficiency rule is fmic for turbos, Aftercoolers for SC. There is your lesson for the day.
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I would say no its not safe. You will shorten the life of your motor over the long haul quicker, and the engine wont perform as consistently with wider fluctuations to driving input and weather, you will experience more heat soak, bogging etc. Water to air/ Aftercoolers are more effective with Superchargers becuase there is much less boost pressure loss(0.5psi). Air to air/FMIC are marginally better at cooling, but there is a much larger area to pressurize and more boost pressure is lost, typically in the 2-4psi range. For an SC the boost loss cant be overcome with the effect of better cooling like a turbo set up, the supercharger will over spin to compensate for the loss, creating more heat and diminishing returns as a result, not to mention the max speed of the blower is reached, so mechanically there is a point where you cant spin it any faster to compensate. General efficiency rule is fmic for turbos, Aftercoolers for SC. There is your lesson for the day. 

Run an aftercooler. You car will love you for it.






