S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Recovered - Untitled

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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Ah. Thanks Soul.

I am having it put on, as I am relocating to NYC sometime this summer. I also need to figure out how to "un-bypass" by throttle body warmer (my brother-in-law did it for me when I was NA, and I have not changed any of the coolant lines around at all).

Honda, of course, did not have the thermostat in stock. It should be here by noon tomorrow! Maybe now I can finally dyno it / get the thing tuned properly (new 1BAR spring and EBC installed, the just scaled the fuel map up to 1BAR, no fine tuning yet).

ZSAK - As far as running high coolant temps, are you running AEM EMS? Did you recalibrate the coolant table values? If not, they are reading 15-20* high. I shut it down once it got to 200*, as I knew I was not pushing it, and the coolant system should have had plenty of capacity to keep it below that at the rate I was driving. I did not want any localized overheating, so I killed it early. I have heard of people hitting 210+ and not warping the head (above that, its a crap shoot). You mainly do not want the water in the coolant mix to boil.

John
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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So you are going to run without a thermostat?
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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ya i am running the ems, when my temps got that high, i looked under the hood and reservoir and everything seemed to be fine, even the engine didn't seem too hot. So my guess is that the ems has not been recalibrated as you mentioned. I have been driving like this from day one since I put the turbo in so my guess if I haven't had any problems yet due to it, the calibrations must just be off. I hope
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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So you are going to run without a thermostat?
For today, yes. Just to get the car back to my parent's place to get the front bumper back on (had to take it off to get it towed... its SLAMMED up front ). Its really warming up here in Florida, so I am not too worried about the oil not getting hot enough.

ZSAK- I believe Camuman (sp?) actually re-did the recalibration on AEMpower.com, and got an even more accurate set of numbers (the AEM recalibration is accurate through the normal operating range, but is off whenever you get outside the 180-200 range)... I still need to update to those settings.

John
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jwa4378,Apr 1 2009, 02:25 PM
For today, yes. Just to get the car back to my parent's place to get the front bumper back on (had to take it off to get it towed... its SLAMMED up front ). Its really warming up here in Florida, so I am not too worried about the oil not getting hot enough.

ZSAK- I believe Camuman (sp?) actually re-did the recalibration on AEMpower.com, and got an even more accurate set of numbers (the AEM recalibration is accurate through the normal operating range, but is off whenever you get outside the 180-200 range)... I still need to update to those settings.

John
well, my buddy and i actually did the iat table. we want to do the coolant table also, but need a coolant sensor donation. we promise to return it!

i have persoanlly seen with the aem upgraded calib table for coolant 205 max. idling, i would see 185-203 cycling back and forth, once i did the aem fan control mod, i dont see over 185 idling. fans are just on all the time right now.

i have never seen over 205 coolant temp even on a race from 30-150.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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ultimately you'll want the thermostat in there so everything is "right" but as long as the temps don't go too high you're fine to drive around.

the stock cooling system actually works pretty well, we've never had a problem on camuman's setup even on long highway runs I think it's yet another thing that comes down to the tune, timing can play a big role in cylinder head and exhaust temps. even in light cruising loads incorrect timing can lead to high EGT's and coolant temps. my buddy with a turbo civic coupe was driving around on a map that had only 20 degrees of timing in part throttle, he changed the timing to closer to 35-40 degrees in the real light load areas and the egt's and coolant temps dropped like crazy.

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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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Without a thermostat, if you drive your car in the winter, it will take FOREVER for it to heat up.

Even during the summer, it will take longer for the engine temps to come up to normal operating range.

Personally, I would run a thermostat on a street car, just my personal preference.

Definitely good to hear you didn't pop a headgasket, been there before, that's never a good feeling
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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I believe that optimal burn occurs somewhere between 160-190 dependening on our conditions so you will probably want to runn the T-Stat to prevent exess carbon build up.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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Awesome. Yeah, I was going to put it back in, just to "do it right." Just wondering if it would implode the motor in the meantime. It does not appear so. I will just avoid beating it until I get the thermostat back in, and back to a higher idle temperature.

Once I can verify that its working, again.... I will see if I can get on Mase's schedule, and not have it puke out on me again!

Definitely good to hear you didn't pop a headgasket, been there before, that's never a good feeling
Especially when you did the headgasket yourself not 3 weeks ago!

John
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