running hot ?
hi guys !
this is my 2nd time writing here about my car getting hot :/
the first time was about a month and a half ago, my car suddenly overheated when i drive and cooled down when i stop and let it idle.
it will go over 3 bars and get to 4 and 5 and then 6 if i keep driving, but when stop and let it idle, it will cool down to 3 bars.
most people said it might be an air bubble in my coolant system, so what i did is
-took the radiator out and got it checked at a local shop and made sure it's not blocked or anything.
-changed the radiator cap to a new Spoon genuine one.
-checked the thermostat and it turned out it's fine not stock or anything, but it's not the OEM one, it looks like it was replaced with one that opened at 73C (that's the number was written on it when i took it out)
-opened the face of the water pump and it looks new, nothing is going bad in it, and it's spinning fine with the front pulley.
- i bleed the coolant system almost 3 times and i think i got a lot of air out.
- got a new AEM gauge to monitor the temperature with.
the car became better after that, it won't overheat when i drive it, actually it will cool down when i'm driving, but it will get hot when i stop and let it idle.
my fans are set with the AEM EMS to kick in at 197F and stop under 194F, and it's set to ignore the switch.
i can feel the fans kick in at 197F but the temperature won't go down, it will still go up, meaning the fans won't bring the temperature down.
the car will idle in about 205-214F on the gauge and still 3 bars on the dash, and won't go under 205F until i start driving. even the temperature outside is very cold like 50F
when i drive it will go down to like 199-197-196-194-192F. and if i stop, it will go up the same way up, and then idle in about 205-214F
and now i don't have heater or A/C working. when i tun them on it will blow normal air, not cold or hot.
i have the novi 1000 with front intercooler and the AEM V2 on the car.
i'm getting crazy with this problem. i don't know what to do.
any ideas ???
this is my 2nd time writing here about my car getting hot :/
the first time was about a month and a half ago, my car suddenly overheated when i drive and cooled down when i stop and let it idle.
it will go over 3 bars and get to 4 and 5 and then 6 if i keep driving, but when stop and let it idle, it will cool down to 3 bars.
most people said it might be an air bubble in my coolant system, so what i did is
-took the radiator out and got it checked at a local shop and made sure it's not blocked or anything.
-changed the radiator cap to a new Spoon genuine one.
-checked the thermostat and it turned out it's fine not stock or anything, but it's not the OEM one, it looks like it was replaced with one that opened at 73C (that's the number was written on it when i took it out)
-opened the face of the water pump and it looks new, nothing is going bad in it, and it's spinning fine with the front pulley.
- i bleed the coolant system almost 3 times and i think i got a lot of air out.
- got a new AEM gauge to monitor the temperature with.
the car became better after that, it won't overheat when i drive it, actually it will cool down when i'm driving, but it will get hot when i stop and let it idle.
my fans are set with the AEM EMS to kick in at 197F and stop under 194F, and it's set to ignore the switch.
i can feel the fans kick in at 197F but the temperature won't go down, it will still go up, meaning the fans won't bring the temperature down.
the car will idle in about 205-214F on the gauge and still 3 bars on the dash, and won't go under 205F until i start driving. even the temperature outside is very cold like 50F
when i drive it will go down to like 199-197-196-194-192F. and if i stop, it will go up the same way up, and then idle in about 205-214F
and now i don't have heater or A/C working. when i tun them on it will blow normal air, not cold or hot.
i have the novi 1000 with front intercooler and the AEM V2 on the car.
i'm getting crazy with this problem. i don't know what to do.
any ideas ???
Is it an OEM radiator?
Here's my guesses: Bleeding "alot" of the air out wasn't enough, you want to bleed ALL of it out. If that's not the case, I'm going to go ahead and assume there's a possibility for a blown head gasket.
Seems your problem has reversed, before, stopping cooled it down; now, driving cools it down. Not really sure.
Have you noticed any oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil? If you want to know if your headgasket is in need of replacing or not, pick up a block tester from Napa, it's cheap and will give you a definitive answer. Very easy to use also, takes just a few seconds.
Here's my guesses: Bleeding "alot" of the air out wasn't enough, you want to bleed ALL of it out. If that's not the case, I'm going to go ahead and assume there's a possibility for a blown head gasket.
Seems your problem has reversed, before, stopping cooled it down; now, driving cools it down. Not really sure.
Have you noticed any oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil? If you want to know if your headgasket is in need of replacing or not, pick up a block tester from Napa, it's cheap and will give you a definitive answer. Very easy to use also, takes just a few seconds.
Try to bleed again but like other have said head gasket
check for warping off the head before changing head gasket 6 bars is really hot for ap1
And put oem thermostat jobber are crap and sometime harder to bleed
And in the process maybe ARP head stud
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If you've fully bled your system and you're still getting air bubbles, it is likely that you either have a leak or headgasket/warped head issue. Like I said, pick up that block tester, It's cheap reassurance.
Not sure how he can check for warping of the head without taking it off, if that is the case, whenever the head is removed the gasket should ALWAYS be changed, within reason of course.
I've found thermostats other than OEM are often much harder to bleed with.
Also I've HEARD that ARP headstuds are of no benefit to us unless you are making loads of power, then again, I can't remember where I've read that and why.
Not sure how he can check for warping of the head without taking it off, if that is the case, whenever the head is removed the gasket should ALWAYS be changed, within reason of course.
I've found thermostats other than OEM are often much harder to bleed with.
Also I've HEARD that ARP headstuds are of no benefit to us unless you are making loads of power, then again, I can't remember where I've read that and why.



