Agree 100%; the compromised resolution (~ 0.7v range between mech-noise and boom) of an OEM knock sensor on a sleeved block is far, far down the list of things I trust... from what I gather the tuner is coming to the same conclusion as well.

Looking into the cost / downsides of getting EGTs tapped into the exhaust runners; shop is also offering to employ a 5-gas analyzer. Other measures to prevent / avoid detonation welcomed as well.

Oil squirters will be installed w/4-hole bolts. Piston tops will be thermal coated. Piston clearances & ring gaps will be carefully revised (successes and horror stories / wisdom welcomed).

Goes without saying the tuning approach must respect the two failures directly attributable to piston heat - short 3rd gear pulls at low boost, conservative timing, etc.

Compression will be measured after the first firing of the motor, and during/after the tuning process to ensure minimal degradation before handing over the keys when we're done.

It's intriguing to investigate adding to the oiling/cooling system with something like this link (adopts a Honda design from another series) like this guy's done, but I have nowhere near enough data to deviate from stock Honda oiling/cooling (possibly introducing rod/bearing issues by altering that system, etc.) http://www.flickr.com/photos/4542493...n/photostream/ Still, interesting concept.

 

I dont have much to add to the thread except some things I noticed about my laskey block. I have had it since 2008 and has never let me down .

Now what i noticed is the car makes more power the hotter the motor gets. I can do 3 dyno pulls back to back and each time make more power than the last pull. By more power I mean 30-40whp more each pull. Also can be seen while racing . It just keeps getting faster with no changes. Only thing I could think of is loose tolerances of the motor maybe to make up for different expansion rates piston vs sleeve ? Now if that could even have a ghost of a chance to cause scuffing once the rotating assembly out expands the sleeves I couldnt say .

Just throwing out my uneducated view of things

 

I think you should just watch this, then re-evaluate what you spend your money on.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quh5-Hr_Bvo[/media]

 

I didnt read the whole thread, but 29 pulls to tune the car? Are you kidding? Every single pull that they make with the tune not right is damaging the engine. They should be able to get the fuel tuned in about 2-3 pulls, and 2-3 more to get the timing right at each boost level.

If you can't beat on the car on the dyno what makes you think you'll be able to beat on the car on the street or the track?

There should be no gentile break in.. compression should go up after a few miles.. not down.

oil squirters might make you feel better but are not necessary.

Can you post pics of your old pistons?

there should be no problem doing 3k to redline pulls on the dyno.

 

1. We don't use the stock KS with a sleeved blocks. Topically aftermarket piston run more piston to wall clearance than stock pistons and can give you phantom knock
2. We have been plugging oilers for 14 years now and never have a problem. If your engine was only seeing 170s temp heat or oilers were not the problem. ERL plugs all our sleeved blocks.

I bet money it's ether the injectors or the shop you a using. Your setup was fine until you changed those two things so start there

 

The most to-the-point post in this thread! I love it!

 

Posting images doesn't seem to work. Here's a link though F22C teardown - cyl 4 failure

Thanks for confirming ERL also plugs squirters. The failure analysis team said they'd called ERL and Golden Eagle & that both used the Honda squirters (interesting...)

Welcome your thoughts (incl ones on the pics posted to the link). I'm becoming more curious about variances between cylinders (timing, air/fuel, cooling, oiling) given how different they look for 1, 2, 3 and 4. 4 was the worst on both builds.

 

Bad link for those pics

 

Like Wadzii stated you should not have issues doing 4th gear pulls on the dyno. As long as temperatures are in check at the beginning of each run I do not see a problem either.

 

I'm not saying ERL does it to all their block but they do it for us because ask for it. So does GoldenEagle. It's NOT the squirters man. If you take out 1000cc and then put in 1000cc it doesn't take that many pulls to retune. You need to be looking over the new injectors and the shop doing the work.