stock block or built block?
#1
stock block or built block?
After 3 years my stock long block finally dropped a valve. It was eminent as I was running 29psi on a 6466. I am not sure if I should just get a built long block or get a stock block with a built head? I want to test out the limits of the short block since the limit for the long block was reached. how long has your stock block lasted at over 650-700WHP? the most power I would want out of this platform is mid 700s.
If I go built its going to be inline pro but I dont know if it will be worth the $ considering my power goals.
thanks
If I go built its going to be inline pro but I dont know if it will be worth the $ considering my power goals.
thanks
#4
My stock block f20c is still running great at 135,000 miles and it is now dynoed at 588whp with a gtx3075r. But I use to run a gtx35r and it was at 640whp for quite some time. It’s been turboed since about 75k miles. my head is built though
i personally think anything south of 700whp a stock block will be the most reliable.
i personally think anything south of 700whp a stock block will be the most reliable.
#5
My stock block f20c is still running great at 135,000 miles and it is now dynoed at 588whp with a gtx3075r. But I use to run a gtx35r and it was at 640whp for quite some time. It’s been turboed since about 75k miles. my head is built though
i personally think anything south of 700whp a stock block will be the most reliable.
i personally think anything south of 700whp a stock block will be the most reliable.
I wanna upgrade to e85 and SOS dual but I also don’t want a car that’s constantly broken. If I only do 3rd gear - 5th gear hits, I wonder if I can make it last a while.
#7
i,m still on my stock 135k transmission. It still shift perfectly fine. but I'm on the 3rd diff. I blew the stock diff then i got a comptech reinforced diff. That lasted a few years till it blow up. i now have a puddymod stage 3 diff with 3.9 final drive.
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#9
Id say 650 or below, pretty reliable long as you take care of the motor, And you keep the torque down AKA safe timing (Oil changes, not hot lapping, regular maintenance)
over that 650-7 mark, your bearings are gonna suffer, due to the tight OEM clearances, and flexing of the crank.
I ran my car on 28-32lbs on teh 62 easily making 7+ and ran like that all summer, than decided to throw the 72 on and crank to 30lbs, probably north of 800 and lasted a night before mains went.
Its just too much stress for stock oil clearances.
over that 650-7 mark, your bearings are gonna suffer, due to the tight OEM clearances, and flexing of the crank.
I ran my car on 28-32lbs on teh 62 easily making 7+ and ran like that all summer, than decided to throw the 72 on and crank to 30lbs, probably north of 800 and lasted a night before mains went.
Its just too much stress for stock oil clearances.
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