Turbo 2K Build List
Time to take a journey down the rabbit hole. Grab a beer, this is a long one. So I've been out of the S2K game for a while now. But the itch has been itching bad, so in the future when it becomes monetarily feasible I'm going to buy another one. However having owned an S/C 2000 before
it just wasn't enough. So turbo it is!!! I've dug around the FI forums for a while going back a few years but I've still got questions for my future build.
TL
R - help me decide what I need for my turbo build.
Target horsepower: 650-800
Reliability: same as an s/c car, thinking variable boost controller to dial in the power from 300-700+ if that exists
Turbo: GTX3582r .82 A/R (can anyone recommend a solid kit with these with minimal relocation/alterations? Was thinking Pfab kit with full race manifold) Tial 38mm wastegate and 50mm BOV,because WTF not lol.
Fuel: 93 + e85 flex fuel (can I also use water/meth with e85 or will that create water in the system?) RC1200 injectors or the bosch injectors, also 1200, and walbro 450 (do I need 1 or 2? 550? What's the deal with those options?) and will I need to upgrade the FPR?
EMS: AEM V2 or Hondata. 9K redline. Would like to retain the OBDII but not a deal breaker, just wondering if the Hondata is enough for this type of application or is a full V2 required for all the versatility and control I need? Also monitoring of all systems including screen, more on that later.
Exhaust: AEM wideband for sure. But can I use a standard 70mm exhaust with a turbo system or is it a for sure full 3" back straight pipe? I love the look and sound of the T1R Sparrow 70mm dual so I'd love to have that if possible.
Trans/diff: Cryo-treated gearbox for rigidity and crisper shifts. PuddyMod diff.
Clutch/flywheel: either SOS twin disk or triple plate clutch system. Open to options.
Valves: either BC or FERREA beehive valvesprings and retainers. Do I need aftermarket valves or are stock good enough?
Head: APR head studs. Should I have it ported? From what I've read, the stock heads are rock solid until the 700hp mark, then you'll need to go aftermarket. Will I need to do any head work to keep it from grenading?
Block: Do I need to sleeve the block? Was thinking Darton/Benson if needed
Cams: BC stage 2 if power target and reliability targets aren't met, any other recommendations?
Stroker kit: BC 2.4 if target power and reliability aren't met. Any concerns with Stroker kits?
Suspension: KW coilovers because they're awesome.
Brakes: AP Racing BBK slotted
Monitoring: GaugeArt or Zada-Tech. Anyone have experience with these or other systems? Wanting something to display literally everything critical for running.
Anything else? Criticisms? Recommendations? Inputs? I'd like to hear everyone's view points on this. No it won't be dailyd but I'd like it to maintain some driveability and good reliability and not just a straight racecar. Thanks in advance everyone
it just wasn't enough. So turbo it is!!! I've dug around the FI forums for a while going back a few years but I've still got questions for my future build.
TL
R - help me decide what I need for my turbo build. Target horsepower: 650-800
Reliability: same as an s/c car, thinking variable boost controller to dial in the power from 300-700+ if that exists
Turbo: GTX3582r .82 A/R (can anyone recommend a solid kit with these with minimal relocation/alterations? Was thinking Pfab kit with full race manifold) Tial 38mm wastegate and 50mm BOV,because WTF not lol.
Fuel: 93 + e85 flex fuel (can I also use water/meth with e85 or will that create water in the system?) RC1200 injectors or the bosch injectors, also 1200, and walbro 450 (do I need 1 or 2? 550? What's the deal with those options?) and will I need to upgrade the FPR?
EMS: AEM V2 or Hondata. 9K redline. Would like to retain the OBDII but not a deal breaker, just wondering if the Hondata is enough for this type of application or is a full V2 required for all the versatility and control I need? Also monitoring of all systems including screen, more on that later.
Exhaust: AEM wideband for sure. But can I use a standard 70mm exhaust with a turbo system or is it a for sure full 3" back straight pipe? I love the look and sound of the T1R Sparrow 70mm dual so I'd love to have that if possible.
Trans/diff: Cryo-treated gearbox for rigidity and crisper shifts. PuddyMod diff.
Clutch/flywheel: either SOS twin disk or triple plate clutch system. Open to options.
Valves: either BC or FERREA beehive valvesprings and retainers. Do I need aftermarket valves or are stock good enough?
Head: APR head studs. Should I have it ported? From what I've read, the stock heads are rock solid until the 700hp mark, then you'll need to go aftermarket. Will I need to do any head work to keep it from grenading?
Block: Do I need to sleeve the block? Was thinking Darton/Benson if needed
Cams: BC stage 2 if power target and reliability targets aren't met, any other recommendations?
Stroker kit: BC 2.4 if target power and reliability aren't met. Any concerns with Stroker kits?
Suspension: KW coilovers because they're awesome.
Brakes: AP Racing BBK slotted
Monitoring: GaugeArt or Zada-Tech. Anyone have experience with these or other systems? Wanting something to display literally everything critical for running.
Anything else? Criticisms? Recommendations? Inputs? I'd like to hear everyone's view points on this. No it won't be dailyd but I'd like it to maintain some driveability and good reliability and not just a straight racecar. Thanks in advance everyone
L19 head studs for the power levels you're targeting
Sleeve the block + Wiseco pistons + your rod of choice (Manley, Pauter, Carillo, BC). You have many options here, Darton, AEBS, etc.
Don't get a stroker for improved reliability. You simply don't need it
I won't bother spending money on cams or head porting
I like ID injectors
Get PuddyMod (user on s2ki) to rebuild your OEM differential
Sleeve the block + Wiseco pistons + your rod of choice (Manley, Pauter, Carillo, BC). You have many options here, Darton, AEBS, etc.
Don't get a stroker for improved reliability. You simply don't need it
I won't bother spending money on cams or head porting
I like ID injectors
Get PuddyMod (user on s2ki) to rebuild your OEM differential
L19 head studs for the power levels you're targeting
Sleeve the block + Wiseco pistons + your rod of choice (Manley, Pauter, Carillo, BC). You have many options here, Darton, AEBS, etc.
Don't get a stroker for improved reliability. You simply don't need it
I won't bother spending money on cams or head porting
I like ID injectors
Get PuddyMod (user on s2ki) to rebuild your OEM differential
Sleeve the block + Wiseco pistons + your rod of choice (Manley, Pauter, Carillo, BC). You have many options here, Darton, AEBS, etc.
Don't get a stroker for improved reliability. You simply don't need it
I won't bother spending money on cams or head porting
I like ID injectors
Get PuddyMod (user on s2ki) to rebuild your OEM differential
Do I need to worry about bearings? And what about compression ratio? Is the stock 11 fine since I'll run e85? Or do I need to drop it to 10 or 9?
Just read through couple of these pages and see what everyone is running to get an idea where to start.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/909...d-power-chart/
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/909...d-power-chart/
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Originally Posted by 99SH' timestamp='1440361895' post='23723762
A stroker puts extra stress where a non-stroked motor would not - making it less reliable in comparison. E.g. increased piston speed & side loading at BDC. It the extra HP worth the trade? your call.
Originally Posted by TheGingernator' timestamp='1440450767' post='23724877
[quote name='99SH' timestamp='1440361895' post='23723762']
A stroker puts extra stress where a non-stroked motor would not - making it less reliable in comparison. E.g. increased piston speed & side loading at BDC. It the extra HP worth the trade? your call.
A stroker puts extra stress where a non-stroked motor would not - making it less reliable in comparison. E.g. increased piston speed & side loading at BDC. It the extra HP worth the trade? your call.
[/quote]
I checked and Wiseco doesn't make 11:1 pistons, but CP does. They also make a range of others. I read a bunch of misinformation with people saying all sorts of numbers, even 16:1 and 8:1. So I was asking y'all what you reasonably thought would be good since I can't really find all that much in the FI forums which is useful and not full of flame wars or just out right wrong information.
And yes, I have read through many many pages of the FI forum
U should specifically check out the power charts. There's alot of info there including what compression piston people use and fuel set ups. That should give u a general idea of what to expect. From looking at the power charts, most people I see run 9:1 pistons. There's people there with fully built engines running 380whp and then there's a few running stock block with +600whp. So it's really kinda up to u what u wana do and ur budget. I'm not fi but I read alot on the power charts and I kinda know what to expect if I'm aiming for 400whp range.




