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Upgrading from 7psi to 9psi CSTC+AC

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Old May 23, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Default Upgrading from 7psi to 9psi CSTC+AC

Hi Guys,

I run a MY00 CTSC+AC (Novi 1000) with bolts on's (H/E) @ 7psi with a greddy emanage ultimate and CT FPR.

I considering upping to 9psi, obviously i will need injectors etc but i have a few questions please.

1. What injectors would be suitable, I'm thinking either 550c or 650cc - would i get away with 550cc?

2. Can i retain the comptech FPR or put the stock FPR back on, or replace with an AEM - will either work?

3. I can i take the old pulley off without removing the whole SC unit etc?

Cheers
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Old May 23, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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Are you going to be using the emanage still or plan to upgrade to aem ems or similar stand alone? If so I would definitely pic up some Injector Dynamic injectors. Can just get 1000cc in case you ever want to run a bit more power.
If you do so then can remove the comptech fpr.
I am not sure with the comptech sc. I think it is much easier than my vortech unit for replacing the pulley but I think you still at least need to unbolt part of the bracket to be able to get it on if not entirely.
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Old May 23, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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im in a similar situation.

are you at 7PSI or with a 7PSI pulley? I imagine if you were actually at 7psi that you would have maxed out the stock injectors.

the 1000cc injectors are overkill but if you plan on getting a stand alone and running more boost in the future they might not be a bad idea. otherwise i would just get 650cc injectors. you would be able to get away with 550cc injectors but may need to keep the FMU if doing so.


I would put the stock FPR on. an aftermarket one would be better but isn't necessary. I plan on putting my stock one back on when I up my boost. if you get 550cc and you need more fuel pressure then you might need to put the comptech FMU back on or buy an aftermarket FPR. The only difference between the comptech FMU and other after market FPRs is that the comptech is rising rate and it may be more difficult for a tunner to tune around it.


you can get the pulley off with the blower still on. I am about to do this myself but honestly a little worried. It should come off with a strap wrench and a socket wrench but if it is stuck on their good you will probably have to take it off and use an impact wrench to get the bolt off and maybe a pulley removal tool to get the pulley off. I would imagine that if the pulley hasn't been on the blower long it wouldn't be difficult to get off and would come off with the blower on the car.
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Old May 24, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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I've actually done this exercise twice with my CTSC. I went from 7 to 9 then to 11psi.

When I went from 7 to 9, I got bigger injectors, and removed the FRP and just let the management system control the injectors. I recommend to get at least 650cc's.
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Old May 24, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Should have no problem removing the pulley. Strap wrench is the key.

You will have to unbolt the SC on a side and lift it as I don't think you can get the pulley all the way off before it touches the block.

I am a bit over 10 psi at redline now, still running the EMU, still going strong. I went with the ID1000's for the extra headroom and I'm told they are more stable than the RC offerings, even though they are much bigger.

And if you have management that can control injectors that have enough pulse width, I'd say ditch the RRFPR. It's a hack, IMO.

~Brad
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Old May 24, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by urBan_dK
You will have to unbolt the SC on a side and lift it as I don't think you can get the pulley all the way off before it touches the block.
I think you are right. I just looked at the blower and matched up the new pulley with the existing one. A tilt method would work but you would have to take out at least 3 out of the 4 bolts. And the bottom long bolt isn't going to come out with the other ones in. plus if that bottom bolt is the one you do leave in i doubt you would get the clearance you need. Maybe if you took of the valve cover off but honestly I don't see anyway of getting it off without draining the oil and taking off the aftercooler. You might be able to do it some odd way but removing the blower entirely looks the easiest.


I have heard that you could do this without taking off the blower but after looking at it i would have no idea how. at least not with an AC set up.
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Old May 25, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Yes as Urban suggested, we use strap wrenches to remove the pulley. The smaller pulleys obviously allow for more clearance but the procedure is the same. Just loosen the 3 bolts and tensioner bolt on the one side of the mounting bracket and loosen up the one on the A/C side. Back them out as far as you need to clear the pulley from the cylinder head. Its been a wile since I removed the 4.4" stock pulley, but you should be able to leave all the bolts in place. The mounting plate will pull back and flex more if you need it to, because of the rubber mounted bushings, a little coaxing with a pry bar I found helps. Pulling the A/C back to clear that one bolt may otherwise be needed to gain enough clearance, but you should not need to remove the coolant lines that run from it.

RC550's are large enough for 9-10psi. But with ID reputation and future possible goals, it just makes sense to pick up some larger ID's.

*** If you don't want to spend the cash on new ID's. I do have some RC650's for sale cheap. You will need to order some RC pnp clips to go with them if you don't want to splice your factory wires.
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Old May 25, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Yes as Urban suggested, we use strap wrenches to remove the pulley. The smaller pulleys obviously allow for more clearance but the procedure is the same. Just loosen the 3 bolts and tensioner bolt on the one side of the mounting bracket and loosen up the one on the A/C side. Back them out as far as you need to clear the pulley from the cylinder head. Its been a wile since I removed the 4.4" stock pulley, but you should be able to leave all the bolts in place. The mounting plate will pull back and flex more if you need it to, because of the rubber mounted bushings, a little coaxing with a pry bar I found helps. Pulling the A/C back to clear that one bolt may otherwise be needed to gain enough clearance, but you should not need to remove the coolant lines that run from it.

RC550's are large enough for 9-10psi. But with ID reputation and future possible goals, it just makes sense to pick up some larger ID's.
sorry for jacking the thread.

So you can get it far enough off by just loosening them? I assume you would need a good 1 - 2 inches (that bottom bolt is like 2feet long so shouldn't be a huge problem). Also where you able to do this without taking off the AC? I assume you could do it without taking off the coolant hoses but it might be hard to do it without disconnecting it from the blower and throttle body.
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Old May 25, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by erikvanden
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1306359484' post='20615513
Yes as Urban suggested, we use strap wrenches to remove the pulley. The smaller pulleys obviously allow for more clearance but the procedure is the same. Just loosen the 3 bolts and tensioner bolt on the one side of the mounting bracket and loosen up the one on the A/C side. Back them out as far as you need to clear the pulley from the cylinder head. Its been a wile since I removed the 4.4" stock pulley, but you should be able to leave all the bolts in place. The mounting plate will pull back and flex more if you need it to, because of the rubber mounted bushings, a little coaxing with a pry bar I found helps. Pulling the A/C back to clear that one bolt may otherwise be needed to gain enough clearance, but you should not need to remove the coolant lines that run from it.

RC550's are large enough for 9-10psi. But with ID reputation and future possible goals, it just makes sense to pick up some larger ID's.
sorry for jacking the thread.

So you can get it far enough off by just loosening them? I assume you would need a good 1 - 2 inches (that bottom bolt is like 2feet long so shouldn't be a huge problem). Also where you able to do this without taking off the AC? I assume you could do it without taking off the coolant hoses but it might be hard to do it without disconnecting it from the blower and throttle body.
Yes, you only need an inch or less, its been a wile since removing the factory big pulley though so you might end up pulling out the top two bolts, the long bastard one underneath can stay for sure. The bolt on the intake side doesn't have much clearance between it and the A/C, so as mentioned, back this out as far as you can and pry the other side or wedge it to free your other hand, if you still cant get enough room then you will have to pull the A/C off the TB(Dont remove all the way, just tilt it up to clear that bolt) You will have to loosen the clamp on the blower end too of course so you can tilt it up. None of this is that big of a deal, takes me less then 30min to do this job.
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Old May 27, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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hmmm. I haven't been able to get the pulley off. the bolt came off fine but the pulley is stuck on there really good. I think it has to come off for my set up. I don't really like prying at that pulley
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