Hey guys-

I am getting ready to fire the s2k up tomorrow with the new OEM HG installed. I am going to flush the coolant til clear with purified water, and will change the oil / filter 3 times prior to the final Mobil1 oil/filter fill. I am also using Honda Type II Pre-mix for the coolant (proper blue stuff). This should get all the gunk leftover from the blown HG out of the system.

I am now wondering if I need to re-torque the head studs after a certain number of heat cycles? The studs were on the engine HG blew, so they are pre-stretched I think. All where straight as a whistle.

We installed the stud nuts with the ARP Moly-lube for re-assembly, so the torque reading should be good (also a brand new torque wrench).

Its just a pain having to pull the cams/rockers again...

Thanks!

John

 

I think 1% of people actually tear it back down to retorque after a heat-cycle.


Although this is what the helms states to do.

 

if they were torqued correctly, you'll be fine without having to retorque them.

 

Thanks Mase.

I torqued them with a Craftsman Pre-set torque wrench. 20# steps to an end rating of 80#, following the OEM sequence, with the ARP Molylube on the threads and both sides of the washer. After each sequence, I went over again at that setting to ensure an even base level of torque across all studs, before moving up to the next step. The final 20# was done EXTREMELY slowly with just dead weight on the bar (leaning vs. pulling), so as to not over torque (my back is still feeling it).

Thanks again, man!

John

 

hah, sounds like u did it correctly, you should be good to go

 

i would retorque after you heat cycle it. To get to the headstud bolts only takes an hour or so if you've done it before, and then another hour or so to put it back together. I wouldn't want to risk it, especially with the ARP's.

 

I don't think I am going to do them after the first heat cycle.

I think I will open it again at the 500 mile mark (like the OEM manual says to do with the OEM bolts) to see if everything is still tight. If its not, I will re-torque and check again at the 1000 mile mark (per the manual again). If everything is fine at 500 miles, I will just leave it. It will probably take me a month to make that mileage, as I am headed over to Europe in 2 weeks...

I really do not want to open it for at least a week. My hands are SOOOO cut up, its not even funny! Like little paper cuts all over the place!

We also adjusted the valves while we were in there... Intake set to .008 (tight on a .008-.010 feeler) and the exhaust set to .010 (tight on a .010 go / no-go feeler).

Thanks again guys!

John

 

where does it say in the manual to retorque the OEM bolts after heat cycling? OEM head stud bolts don't need to be retorqued after being installed. Its only the ARP's that say in 'their' manual to retorque them.

 

Huh.... I coulda sworn I saw that somewhere... Just looked at the Cylinder Head Resinstall again in the manual and cannot find it now. Hmmmm... Maybe I was mistaken.

John