Vortech Kit/Belt
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Fr. Cali. In Jacksonville,Fl
Ok, i did some searching, and i couldn't come up with the right answer. So here we go. I have the Vortech kit installed on the car with the stock pulley. My question is, to put the new pulley on, which is a 3.8 pulley. Whats all required to install it? Now i read that with the comptech kit, you dont have to remove to the charger from the bracket. Just undo the pulley, then the belt. And put the new pulley on, set the tension on the belt, and tighten the pulley. Is this correct?
Jack front of car up so you can access underneath.
Remove intake pipe on blower.
Loosen the clamps on the silicone connectors between the blower and after cooler as well as between the after cooler and the TB.
Access lock nut on arbor (3/4) from underneath and loosen 1/4 turn.
Release tension on sc belt by turning adjusting screw (10mm)clockwise.
Seven nuts and bolts hold the main mounting plate to the engine. Two 10mm nuts at the bottom. two 9/16 into the v-tec solenoid block, 2 x 1/2 inch into the bracket at the front and the (14mm) long bolt holding the stock v-belt pulley.
Crack each of them loose and then take the tension off of the factory belt. Pull the tensioner and slip the belt over the alternator pulley so no tension is on the belt.
Pull the aftercooler loose by sliding the coupler away from the TB and back over the neck of the after cooler.
No need to drain.
After that the after cooler can be moved a little to the right and up.
I use a towel to put under it. You just need a little room.
Pull the seven bolts/nuts. I leave one of the 1/2 inch bolts in place loosely until done. A ratcheting 9/16 wrench is helpful as the upper 9/16 is in a tight place. Hold the pulley and spacer as you pull the long bolt.
Pull the assembly towards the front with the lower part forward to clear the studs.
After the two small studs clear you can lift it up, pull it back a few inches and lay it on a towel on the cross member.
Use an impact gun pop the 9/16 bolt holding the pulley on.
Don't drop the key in the key way on the shaft.
Remove the pulley and replace with the new one.
It should slide on with no major resistance.
If it has resistance and won't go on the shaft, clean it up a little with ultra fine (1000 works fine) sand paper.
Installation is just the opposite. Two quick taps with the impact gun sets the pulley bolt just fine.
When reinstalling I find it helpful after getting the plate on the lower studs to put one of the 1/2 inch bolts in a couple turns to hold the assemble in place. Then get that upper 9/16 bolt started and in a few turns. The ratcheting 9/16 wrench can clear the bolt head if the assemble is pulled back allowing easier turning. Without a ratcheting wrench you can only turn that bolt 1/16 turn at a time and it requires reversing the wrench constantly.
The last step is to set the tension on the belt and then tighten the bolt on the arbor from underneath.
Remove intake pipe on blower.
Loosen the clamps on the silicone connectors between the blower and after cooler as well as between the after cooler and the TB.
Access lock nut on arbor (3/4) from underneath and loosen 1/4 turn.
Release tension on sc belt by turning adjusting screw (10mm)clockwise.
Seven nuts and bolts hold the main mounting plate to the engine. Two 10mm nuts at the bottom. two 9/16 into the v-tec solenoid block, 2 x 1/2 inch into the bracket at the front and the (14mm) long bolt holding the stock v-belt pulley.
Crack each of them loose and then take the tension off of the factory belt. Pull the tensioner and slip the belt over the alternator pulley so no tension is on the belt.
Pull the aftercooler loose by sliding the coupler away from the TB and back over the neck of the after cooler.
No need to drain.
After that the after cooler can be moved a little to the right and up.
I use a towel to put under it. You just need a little room.
Pull the seven bolts/nuts. I leave one of the 1/2 inch bolts in place loosely until done. A ratcheting 9/16 wrench is helpful as the upper 9/16 is in a tight place. Hold the pulley and spacer as you pull the long bolt.
Pull the assembly towards the front with the lower part forward to clear the studs.
After the two small studs clear you can lift it up, pull it back a few inches and lay it on a towel on the cross member.
Use an impact gun pop the 9/16 bolt holding the pulley on.
Don't drop the key in the key way on the shaft.
Remove the pulley and replace with the new one.
It should slide on with no major resistance.
If it has resistance and won't go on the shaft, clean it up a little with ultra fine (1000 works fine) sand paper.
Installation is just the opposite. Two quick taps with the impact gun sets the pulley bolt just fine.
When reinstalling I find it helpful after getting the plate on the lower studs to put one of the 1/2 inch bolts in a couple turns to hold the assemble in place. Then get that upper 9/16 bolt started and in a few turns. The ratcheting 9/16 wrench can clear the bolt head if the assemble is pulled back allowing easier turning. Without a ratcheting wrench you can only turn that bolt 1/16 turn at a time and it requires reversing the wrench constantly.
The last step is to set the tension on the belt and then tighten the bolt on the arbor from underneath.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Fr. Cali. In Jacksonville,Fl
Dam, good write up. Thanks alot. But thats not what i wanted to see. lol! Now if i did it like this, would it work.
Loosen the pulley while its still on the blower and still have tension. Once its loose, loosen the tension from the arbor and the small 10mm nut and the belt should come off right? Now putting it back together should be in reverse order correct?
Loosen the pulley while its still on the blower and still have tension. Once its loose, loosen the tension from the arbor and the small 10mm nut and the belt should come off right? Now putting it back together should be in reverse order correct?
There is no room to pull the pulley off the shaft without moving the whole assembly.
You can't pull the valve cover and get any more clearance because the head is in the way.
If you don't take the tension off the alt belt the threads will start to strip as you remove the long bolt holding the factory belt pulley/spacer.
There is no short cut. Same for replacing the belt, have to pull it.
You can't pull the valve cover and get any more clearance because the head is in the way.
If you don't take the tension off the alt belt the threads will start to strip as you remove the long bolt holding the factory belt pulley/spacer.
There is no short cut. Same for replacing the belt, have to pull it.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Fr. Cali. In Jacksonville,Fl
Ok, i got the pulley on and started putting everything back together and seen the belt kinda not straight while its on the pulley. I routed everything correctly, or not? I was thinking about taking the little half L bracket off and shaving it down since thats where the belt is hitting. I tried tightning the tensioner ande arbor and came up with the same thing. Then i noticed the pulley dont look to be completely on the charger. So im kinda clueless. Any ideas. Here are some pics as well.



Not sure if you can see the belt touching against the small L bracket or not. But is the pulley suppose to be on further? The pulley size is a 3.8. Is there anything im missing?



Not sure if you can see the belt touching against the small L bracket or not. But is the pulley suppose to be on further? The pulley size is a 3.8. Is there anything im missing?









