I have just realized from several members on the boards that I could run the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump alone without upgrading to a Walbro 255 fuel pump.. The previous owner who had this kit that I purchased had no issues with running the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump with the VORTECH SUPERCHARGER..

So should I just run the same setup? Will this be better or produce the same results? After all I have 2 of these units, 1 that came with it, and 1 that I bought..

Or should I just sell the Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pumps and buy a Walbro 255?

My original plan was to install both, but it looks like that would be useless?

I don't know... Please chime in Boosters.....

Thank you again

 

The boost-a-pump was designed to work without retuning the car, ie 21st century solution to the FMU. With the injectors and EMS it is pointless really. So there is no need for both, the Walbro is cleaner, quieter and will handle more power than your head unit can dish out. I have run booster pumps in the past but that was due to a difficult pump install. Our cars have a very easy to access pump. I bet you could sell the boost-a-pump for much more that the Walbro anyway.

 

Thank you....

 

I use both a Kenne Bell boost a pump and Walbro 255. The combination together has made for me 750 whp.

The answer to your question depends on the state of tune of your car and the amount of HP you are seeking. I suggest you measure your fuel pressure and pump voltage while boosting.

First of all the facts. As you start pushing larger volumes of fuel, your pump will draw more current and the voltage across the pump will drop. As the voltage drops the pump slows down and delivers less fuel. Even though your alternator may put out 14 odd volts, you may in boosted cars see only 11V or so at your fuel pump. Fuel pumps love the extra voltage - I run mine at 18V. It uses less current for the same work which translates into less heat in the motor windings.

A Walbro uses more current and can heat up the fuel pump wiring (over time) making it brittle. Heaver gauge wires to the fuel pump are a plus whether running a stock or aftermarket pump and can help increase the pump voltage and pumping capacity.

Our recent tests on a boosted Honda with a non return fuel system, show that on a car pushing about 10 psi of boost, the fuel pressure at the fuel rail drops from 65 to 55 psi from idle to redline. (This car was making 300 HP) Then we moved the fuel pressure gauge to the tank. There the fuel pressure dropped from 65 to 60 psi. This says that we can increase the fuel pressure in two ways:

1) Running larger lines from tank to rail. I'd expect a 3-4 PSI improvement
2) Bumping fuel pump voltage under boost or installing a bigger pump. I'd expect another 3-4 psi.

 

I agree there are advantages but for most the boost-a-pump is not that great of an idea. If you didn't already own one, why would you spend the money on a boost-a-pump and just install an inline booster pump? I used regular inline pumps for years much like the one in the link. If you ever have to drop the tank in a F-Body (Camaro or Transam) you will love the idea of an inline unit. We used to place a hobbs switch on the intake and when we saw boost it woudl kick on the booster pump. The entire setup was only $130 and took our cars up to and beyond 700RWHP. The on trick we developed was to make a bypass around the booster pump for normal driving.

By the way when is Hondata going to make a plug and play system forAP1 cars. I am about to intall a AEM 1052-U but would rather be installing on of your units.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku

 

i run an aeromotive a100 external pump. i run 8 AN from tank to rail and 6 AN back to tank. i have plenty of fuel with lots of room to spare!!!

 

FTW

http://www.fullblownmotorsports.net/produc...products_id/128

 

does anyone know what kind of fuel pump comes with the Vortech Kit?? i have the old kit (sq v2) for my 00 ap1

can it support 500+whp or should i get a walbro 255??