S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

what can be wrong

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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #11  
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Change the voltage. The esm can be adjusted w a precision screwdriver and a multimeter. Solder the wires when you get a chance too.

If you're stuck, just remove the supercharger belt and drive the car. It should drive like stock then w no problems.

If you're in the parking lot, then just cut the belt off.
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 10:17 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by james0933
Change the voltage. The esm can be adjusted w a precision screwdriver and a multimeter. Solder the wires when you get a chance too.

If you're stuck, just remove the supercharger belt and drive the car. It should drive like stock then w no problems.

If you're in the parking lot, then just cut the belt off.
Took your advice and just cut the belt off didn't want to but it was pretty much my last resort. Obviously the cel is still on but car wouldn't allow me to push past 3k rpm I had to take the backstreets and my car would bog out at idle and would go to about 300 rpm had to give it gas to keep it running. This isn't normal at all and Im just hoping it's nothing extremely bad. I also removed the esm unit and all wires were hooked up so that shouldn't have been the problem. Going to get the cel checked out tomorrow and call the shop that installed it and see what they say or can do now I'm just hoping this all gets resolved ASAP thanks for all your guy's inputs
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #13  
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The very rich AFR WILL damage your cylinder walls no doubt. I wouldn't drive the car even with the pulley off. The rich mixture will wipe your cylinder walls and scuff em.

You might have just destroyed your engine, you might not have. You just gambled big time. Things will be fine IF the AFR guage is off and your mixture was indeed fine.

By driving with the belt off you might have just made it run even richer since now air isn't being forced into it, least on a S/C setup it makes little difference below 3k but still, that wasn't a good idea unless you're such the AFR was acceptable. Also, REMOVE the belt, not CUT.

Don't drive it until you know for sure. Don't ever drive with a 11.5:1 AFR or richer either. At idle you should be seeing around 15:1 or somewhere around there.

Really you need to know these kinds of things or you're likely going to have a huge problem on your hands. Read up in the forced induction section often is my advice.

-Greg
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 03:04 AM
  #14  
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The car is in limp home mode. Get the OBD II read out.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 05:37 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 05TurboS2k
The very rich AFR WILL damage your cylinder walls no doubt. I wouldn't drive the car even with the pulley off. The rich mixture will wipe your cylinder walls and scuff em.

You might have just destroyed your engine, you might not have. You just gambled big time. Things will be fine IF the AFR guage is off and your mixture was indeed fine.

By driving with the belt off you might have just made it run even richer since now air isn't being forced into it, least on a S/C setup it makes little difference below 3k but still, that wasn't a good idea unless you're such the AFR was acceptable. Also, REMOVE the belt, not CUT.

Don't drive it until you know for sure. Don't ever drive with a 11.5:1 AFR or richer either. At idle you should be seeing around 15:1 or somewhere around there.

Really you need to know these kinds of things or you're likely going to have a huge problem on your hands. Read up in the forced induction section often is my advice.

-Greg
Well I hope I didnt damage my motor now

The guage was off when I drove it home because I disconnected it dont know if that makes anything better

I cut the belt because it was my last resort

Im not gonna drive the car now until I find out exactly whats wrong Because it was idling fine the whole day between 14.7 and 15.1 then all of a sudden dropped

Thanks for the advice all I can do now is wait and wave my options if any
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 09:01 AM
  #16  
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Any shop that's got any idea of customer service will take care of this for you, assuming you didn't leave out any details about what happened.

Good luck!
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by vividracing.com
Any shop that's got any idea of customer service will take care of this for you, assuming you didn't leave out any details about what happened.

Good luck!
Assuming this is true will it matter that I cut my belt and disconnected the esm?
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #18  
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I would say you would have to at least pay for the belt.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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^^^ I understand that I will buy the belt but I'm sure they're going to want to charge me for the labor to put it on again, which I doubt would take that long but I'll just have to wait and see until I can get my S towed to the shop
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jonnysc14
Originally Posted by vividracing.com' timestamp='1335373266' post='21641960
Any shop that's got any idea of customer service will take care of this for you, assuming you didn't leave out any details about what happened.

Good luck!
Assuming this is true will it matter that I cut my belt and disconnected the esm?

No, that won't be a problem, except you'll probably need to pay for new belt. I know it was your last resort, what I was getting at is probably be a good idea to carry just a couple key size wrenches in your car. Philips, straight blade, Box wrenches in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and whatever size it takes to disconnect your S/C in the easiest manner possible. It's a tiny bit of weight that will save your but in a lot of situations.

EDIT> missed your last post, they shouldn't charge you to put the belt on and that's a very easy job, if they do I'd be annoyed....and then some.
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