Photography and Gallery etiquette
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From: Southern Cali
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Great tips for beginners!
I've done a lot of photography for car clubs and attended more car shows than I will admit to, photographing everything from import models to import cars over the past 4-5 years and here are a few things I want to add:
1. When photographing your car against a backdrop, take care in framing your shot. When you look through the camera viewfinder, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure no poles grow from the front of your car and that no trees or bushes seem to grow from the tail end.
2. Bright sun can create unattractive shadows in the lines of the car, especially when you are trying to take detail shots in the wheels. Eliminate the shadows by using your flash to lighten the areas. When taking pictures on sunny days, turn your flash on. You may have a choice of fill-flash mode or full-flash mode. If the car is within five feet, use the fill-flash mode; beyond five feet, the full-power mode may be required. With a digital camera, you can use the picture display panel to review the results and adjust as needed.
3. If you are taking photos of a portion of your car, take a step or two closer before taking the picture and zoom in on your subject. Your goal is to fill the picture area with the subject you are photographing. Up close you can reveal telling details, so make sure your car is clean!!! But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry. The closest focusing distance for most cameras is about three feet, or about one step away from your camera. If you get closer than the closest focusing distance of your camera (see your manual to be sure), your pictures will be blurry (unless you are using a macro lens).
4. The rule of thirds is your master. Learn it. Use it. Love it. The middle of your picture is not the best place for your car. Bring your picture to life by simply moving your subject away from the middle of your picture. Start by playing tick-tack-toe with subject position. Imagine a tick-tack-toe grid in your viewfinder. Now place your important subject at one of the intersections of lines. You'll need to lock the focus if you have an auto-focus camera because most of them focus on whatever is in the center of the viewfinder. This is called the rule of thirds or the golden mean. You can read up about it in google or any photography tutorial site.
5. If your subject is not in the center of the picture, you need to lock the focus to create a sharp picture. Most auto-focus cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the picture. But to improve pictures, you will often want to move the subject away from the center of the picture. If you don't want a blurred picture, you'll need to first lock the focus with the subject in the middle and then recompose the picture so the subject is away from the middle. Usually you can lock the focus in three steps. First, center the subject and press and hold the shutter button halfway down. Second, reposition your camera (while still holding the shutter button) so the subject is away from the center. And third, finish by pressing the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.
6. Photographing yellow cars - Capturing good photos of a yellow car can be difficult. Typically you'll wind up with total bleachout on the top surfaces (your dazzling spa yellow paint is now white), and murky orangish/gray in the lower areas of the car. In other words, ugly, crappy snapshots.
***Vertical Light is BAD / Horizontal Light is GOOD***
vertical light = high-angle, high-in-the-sky sunlight
horizontal light = low-angle, rising/setting sun--AND your fill flash
Your camera needs MUCH MORE light to "see your car" than your eyes do. It needs lots of smooth, evenly-distributed, horizontal or low-angle light
Anyways... that was an overly long post so I'll stop now. The best way to improve your shooting practices is to get out there and shoot shoot shoot! But remember to take your time when setting up, composing, framing, and exposing your shot.
Garbage In = Garbage Out
Move from taking a snapshot to put on your fridge to taking photographs which you can frame.
Cheers~
I've done a lot of photography for car clubs and attended more car shows than I will admit to, photographing everything from import models to import cars over the past 4-5 years and here are a few things I want to add:
1. When photographing your car against a backdrop, take care in framing your shot. When you look through the camera viewfinder, force yourself to study the area surrounding your subject. Make sure no poles grow from the front of your car and that no trees or bushes seem to grow from the tail end.
2. Bright sun can create unattractive shadows in the lines of the car, especially when you are trying to take detail shots in the wheels. Eliminate the shadows by using your flash to lighten the areas. When taking pictures on sunny days, turn your flash on. You may have a choice of fill-flash mode or full-flash mode. If the car is within five feet, use the fill-flash mode; beyond five feet, the full-power mode may be required. With a digital camera, you can use the picture display panel to review the results and adjust as needed.
3. If you are taking photos of a portion of your car, take a step or two closer before taking the picture and zoom in on your subject. Your goal is to fill the picture area with the subject you are photographing. Up close you can reveal telling details, so make sure your car is clean!!! But don't get too close or your pictures will be blurry. The closest focusing distance for most cameras is about three feet, or about one step away from your camera. If you get closer than the closest focusing distance of your camera (see your manual to be sure), your pictures will be blurry (unless you are using a macro lens).
4. The rule of thirds is your master. Learn it. Use it. Love it. The middle of your picture is not the best place for your car. Bring your picture to life by simply moving your subject away from the middle of your picture. Start by playing tick-tack-toe with subject position. Imagine a tick-tack-toe grid in your viewfinder. Now place your important subject at one of the intersections of lines. You'll need to lock the focus if you have an auto-focus camera because most of them focus on whatever is in the center of the viewfinder. This is called the rule of thirds or the golden mean. You can read up about it in google or any photography tutorial site.
5. If your subject is not in the center of the picture, you need to lock the focus to create a sharp picture. Most auto-focus cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the picture. But to improve pictures, you will often want to move the subject away from the center of the picture. If you don't want a blurred picture, you'll need to first lock the focus with the subject in the middle and then recompose the picture so the subject is away from the middle. Usually you can lock the focus in three steps. First, center the subject and press and hold the shutter button halfway down. Second, reposition your camera (while still holding the shutter button) so the subject is away from the center. And third, finish by pressing the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.
6. Photographing yellow cars - Capturing good photos of a yellow car can be difficult. Typically you'll wind up with total bleachout on the top surfaces (your dazzling spa yellow paint is now white), and murky orangish/gray in the lower areas of the car. In other words, ugly, crappy snapshots.
***Vertical Light is BAD / Horizontal Light is GOOD***
vertical light = high-angle, high-in-the-sky sunlight
horizontal light = low-angle, rising/setting sun--AND your fill flash
Your camera needs MUCH MORE light to "see your car" than your eyes do. It needs lots of smooth, evenly-distributed, horizontal or low-angle light
Anyways... that was an overly long post so I'll stop now. The best way to improve your shooting practices is to get out there and shoot shoot shoot! But remember to take your time when setting up, composing, framing, and exposing your shot.
Garbage In = Garbage Out
Move from taking a snapshot to put on your fridge to taking photographs which you can frame.
Cheers~
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Originally Posted by LoudMusic,Jul 13 2005, 10:37 AM
Interesting stuff, but not wholey accurate.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
Also, the ISO guidelines in the first post are only a guideline, not a rule. You can bring a lot of creativity to your photographs by experimenting with different ISO speeds in different settings. I often shoot with 50 ISO in night time settings with stunning results and 400+ ISO in daylight for high grain and contrast.
You can also always play with shutter and aperture settings in less than ideal light conditions with incorrect film to obtain a decent photo.
Thread Starter
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by LoudMusic,Jul 13 2005, 02:37 PM
Interesting stuff, but not wholey accurate.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
Thread Starter
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by Monkei,Jul 13 2005, 02:35 PM
Poindexter: Thanks very much for the tips. I am looking at getting my first digital camera soon, and have always wondered wahat all these functions meant... now I know.
Best for you to figure out what works for you
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Southern Cali
Originally Posted by LoudMusic,Jul 13 2005, 11:37 AM
Interesting stuff, but not wholey accurate.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
The shutter speed examples are incorrect. The reason the first one is out of focus is because you're actually focused on the box behind the skull. Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus. You may get motion blur from a slower shutter speed, but motion blur and focus are two different things.
I just wanted to add that with a smaller aperature means clearer pictures (less background blur, assuming the subject is in focus). Now, closing the aperature also means slower shutter speeds, which does make it possible for a blurry picture from a shaky hand, especially for indoor lighting. Shutter speeds are more important on action shots.
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From: Home
Originally Posted by Monkei,Jul 13 2005, 01:35 PM
Poindexter: Thanks very much for the tips. I am looking at getting my first digital camera soon, and have always wondered wahat all these functions meant... now I know.
Could you (or anyone) recommend a good starter camera. I don't need a D70 or anything crazy (and I certainly don't want one that big). I would like to get a camera that is at least 5 meagapixel, but is still compact enough to tote around in my pocket. I don't need an assload of features (mainly because I wouldn't know how to use most of them), but I certainly don't want a bare-bones camera. It would be nice if it had enough features that I could grow into it over the years, and practice using them, so when I am ready, I could use all the little fun features.
Could you (or anyone) recommend a good starter camera. I don't need a D70 or anything crazy (and I certainly don't want one that big). I would like to get a camera that is at least 5 meagapixel, but is still compact enough to tote around in my pocket. I don't need an assload of features (mainly because I wouldn't know how to use most of them), but I certainly don't want a bare-bones camera. It would be nice if it had enough features that I could grow into it over the years, and practice using them, so when I am ready, I could use all the little fun features.
This is the S2ki of Digital Photography. There are some REALLY knowdledable people there. If you search REALLY hard you might find some lame-ass posts by me, but it's been years since i was over there seriously.
Typically the "pocketable" cameras have teeny-tiny lenses on them that are VERY slow. This is OK for when you are outside in full-sun, but in any kind of darkness (even inside with what you might think is plenty of light) they kinda suck.
The lens is every bit as important, mabey even MORE important than the number of megapixles. I'll put my 3mp camera up against one of those credit card sized 5mp cameras any day of the week and blow it away with quality.
I am personally a big fan of Sony's cameras. The CCD (which is the digital equivilant to the film) in MOST of today's cameras is made by Sony. Sony has an agreement with Carl Zeiss to use their lens technology in some of their cameras. Zeiss makes one of the best lenses out there. So if you couple one of the best lenses with one of the best CCDs (and the CCD firmware written by the manufacure) you get some nice stuff. This may not be the most popular opinion, but it's mine. One of the biggest knocks against Sony is the Memory Stick format. I got my Sony camera's despite the Memory sticks (more expensive, less compatibility with other devices.) and am very happy with them.
No matter what, look for a camera with manual exposure. Even if you are in point-and-shoot mode most of the time, you really need to have the ability to shoot in either Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority or full Manual mode. Otherwise, you will be shopping for a new camera in 6 mos.
For shots at night, get a tripod. Yes, you REALLY need one. Just get one, they are pretty cheap.
Check out http://www.nyip.com for info on taking photography classes. I took their class and learned a LOT. It's a little pricey, but not bad.
Good luck, and enjoy.
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From: Intercontinental
Good topic. Let's sticky this thread.
Another addition to your point about shutter speed is the aperature and depth of field.
Info on Aperture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture
Aperture (measured in "f-stops") is the setting that controls the opening of the lens which in effect controls the amount of light coming in.
- The lower the "f-stop" #, the larger the opening and more light.
- The higher the "f-stop" #, the smaller the opening and less light.
For example, "F1.4" is considered a lower aperture and will allow a lot of light whereas "F8" is smaller brings in less light.
Why does this matter? Aperture helps control the amount of light as well as allowing you to adjust the depth of field. What's that? Depth of field is explained more in detail in the link below but it is essentially the distance between two objects in a given shot. One being closer while the other being further in the distance.
- With a lower "F-stop" (ex: F2), you can focus on a nearby object and blur out the background or focus on the distant object and blur out the nearby object.
- The higher your aperture, "F-stop" (ex: F8), you can make all objects at different distances in focus.
Info on Depth of Field: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
Another addition to your point about shutter speed is the aperature and depth of field.
Info on Aperture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture
Aperture (measured in "f-stops") is the setting that controls the opening of the lens which in effect controls the amount of light coming in.
- The lower the "f-stop" #, the larger the opening and more light.
- The higher the "f-stop" #, the smaller the opening and less light.
For example, "F1.4" is considered a lower aperture and will allow a lot of light whereas "F8" is smaller brings in less light.
Why does this matter? Aperture helps control the amount of light as well as allowing you to adjust the depth of field. What's that? Depth of field is explained more in detail in the link below but it is essentially the distance between two objects in a given shot. One being closer while the other being further in the distance.
- With a lower "F-stop" (ex: F2), you can focus on a nearby object and blur out the background or focus on the distant object and blur out the nearby object.
- The higher your aperture, "F-stop" (ex: F8), you can make all objects at different distances in focus.
Info on Depth of Field: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
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From: In The Ether
Originally Posted by naomi-sarah,Jul 13 2005, 12:40 PM
Using flash will also alleviate the blurring problem.
Also, the ISO guidelines in the first post are only a guideline, not a rule. You can bring a lot of creativity to your photographs by experimenting with different ISO speeds in different settings. I often shoot with 50 ISO in night time settings with stunning results and 400+ ISO in daylight for high grain and contrast.
You can also always play with shutter and aperture settings in less than ideal light conditions with incorrect film to obtain a decent photo.
Also, the ISO guidelines in the first post are only a guideline, not a rule. You can bring a lot of creativity to your photographs by experimenting with different ISO speeds in different settings. I often shoot with 50 ISO in night time settings with stunning results and 400+ ISO in daylight for high grain and contrast.
You can also always play with shutter and aperture settings in less than ideal light conditions with incorrect film to obtain a decent photo.
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Originally Posted by LoudMusic,Jul 13 2005, 10:56 AM
That's because the camera is prepairing for more light, reducing shutter time, and the human element is less at fault for moving the camera (:
