Topsecret
what did i tell you ant??? i would rather go to home depot and buy some spray paint to paint my car before going to Century to have it painted...i guess their new "high-end only" paint booth couldn't prep fiberglass...
Originally posted by C-West S2K
what did i tell you ant??? i would rather go to home depot and buy some spray paint to paint my car before going to Century to have it painted...i guess their new "high-end only" paint booth couldn't prep fiberglass...
what did i tell you ant??? i would rather go to home depot and buy some spray paint to paint my car before going to Century to have it painted...i guess their new "high-end only" paint booth couldn't prep fiberglass...
Glass is incredibly easy to repair. The shop that did the painting should be shot and be required to do it again. They simply didn't prep the surface.
You need some fairing compound. Go to a marine store and get a small can of polyurethane resin and some catalyst. It may come in a small kit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. You then need some filler, called microfiber. It's a very fine white dust like power you mix into the resin to thicken it and make it easier to sand. Mix in enough to make a paste, wet enough to stick by dry enough that it won't run. It should be a firm paste that holds shape. Mix all this in a small PAPER cup with a wooden popsicle stick (they have all this at the store). Don't use plastic, it will melt, the resin gets hot as it sets up. You've probably got about 1 hr working time once you add the catalyst depending on temp and humidity. Once it goes off, toss it out and make another batch, don't be cheap.
Sand and clean the surface around the repair area to remove paint, oil and dirt. Use acetone to make sure the surface is dust free. Using the mixing stick, dab on enough mixture to fill the divots but not too much, it's a bitch to sand off. Don't leave peaks, remember you've got to sand it and it's HARD. Let it set 24 hrs and using progressively finer paper (as smooth as you want to go) sand till smooth and shaped correctly. If the hole is deep, repeat the process several times building up in layers.
If you have a cracked fiberglass piece, the process is much the same. You'll also need some light cloth as well, 2 oz, it's not structural. Clamp the two broken bits together in the right position and so you are looking at the back or unexposed side, this is where you will work. Sand and clean 4-6" on either side of the crack. 120 grit should be adequate. Using a small paint roller and a piece of plywood coat the cloth in plain resin without filler. The cloth should be wide enough a strip to extend 4" on each side of the crack but NEVER expose the cloth. You can't sand off cloth. stay 1/4" away from any exposed edge. Lay the cloth over the crack and roll with a special roller (get at store) to squeeze out any air bubbles. Let set until tacky but dry (about an hour or two) and apply a second layer of cloth in the same way. If you let it get too hard, you'll have to sand again. Let set overnight. Double check your work! If the two halves are misaligned you'll have to grind it off and start again.
The piece should be solid now and you can then follow the fairing instructions on the exposed side as above. You will obviously need more of everything to do a bigger job. Presto magico it's as good as new. A single fiberglass repair shouldn't take more than a weekend to complete. It's quick, easy and good as new in no time.
Once the repair in complete, you are ready to paint. I wish all cars were made of fiberglass, we could all do our own body work. Glass work really is for dummies. You will find everything you need at your local West Marine store or similar and it shouldn't cost more than $10-$20. Paint is extra.
You need some fairing compound. Go to a marine store and get a small can of polyurethane resin and some catalyst. It may come in a small kit. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. You then need some filler, called microfiber. It's a very fine white dust like power you mix into the resin to thicken it and make it easier to sand. Mix in enough to make a paste, wet enough to stick by dry enough that it won't run. It should be a firm paste that holds shape. Mix all this in a small PAPER cup with a wooden popsicle stick (they have all this at the store). Don't use plastic, it will melt, the resin gets hot as it sets up. You've probably got about 1 hr working time once you add the catalyst depending on temp and humidity. Once it goes off, toss it out and make another batch, don't be cheap.
Sand and clean the surface around the repair area to remove paint, oil and dirt. Use acetone to make sure the surface is dust free. Using the mixing stick, dab on enough mixture to fill the divots but not too much, it's a bitch to sand off. Don't leave peaks, remember you've got to sand it and it's HARD. Let it set 24 hrs and using progressively finer paper (as smooth as you want to go) sand till smooth and shaped correctly. If the hole is deep, repeat the process several times building up in layers.
If you have a cracked fiberglass piece, the process is much the same. You'll also need some light cloth as well, 2 oz, it's not structural. Clamp the two broken bits together in the right position and so you are looking at the back or unexposed side, this is where you will work. Sand and clean 4-6" on either side of the crack. 120 grit should be adequate. Using a small paint roller and a piece of plywood coat the cloth in plain resin without filler. The cloth should be wide enough a strip to extend 4" on each side of the crack but NEVER expose the cloth. You can't sand off cloth. stay 1/4" away from any exposed edge. Lay the cloth over the crack and roll with a special roller (get at store) to squeeze out any air bubbles. Let set until tacky but dry (about an hour or two) and apply a second layer of cloth in the same way. If you let it get too hard, you'll have to sand again. Let set overnight. Double check your work! If the two halves are misaligned you'll have to grind it off and start again.
The piece should be solid now and you can then follow the fairing instructions on the exposed side as above. You will obviously need more of everything to do a bigger job. Presto magico it's as good as new. A single fiberglass repair shouldn't take more than a weekend to complete. It's quick, easy and good as new in no time.
Once the repair in complete, you are ready to paint. I wish all cars were made of fiberglass, we could all do our own body work. Glass work really is for dummies. You will find everything you need at your local West Marine store or similar and it shouldn't cost more than $10-$20. Paint is extra.
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