J's Racing blue ti-knob...does it fade?
http://www.vexmotorsports.com/Js-Racing--T...on_p_1645.html#
Whats up guys, i currently have a T1R titanium shift knob (it faded). Can anyone who owns a J's Racing titanium blue knob vouch that it wont fade? I have a friend with a ARC titanium knob and his faded as well so im looking into the J's knob. Thanks in advance.
Whats up guys, i currently have a T1R titanium shift knob (it faded). Can anyone who owns a J's Racing titanium blue knob vouch that it wont fade? I have a friend with a ARC titanium knob and his faded as well so im looking into the J's knob. Thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by Shadow_S2K,Nov 16 2010, 10:52 PM
You can re-heat the knob with a hand torch and get it to the "burned" color again 

I know that people have done this before, I personally used the flame over a stove, but my knob had an area I could hang it over the flame with, probably can't do it with a circular knob
Clean the knob from any oils using alcohol
put it on the concrete ground
put the torch or flame directly over it and just wait until it starts to changes colors.
After that, don't touch it for a good 30 minutes or so...to let it cool off fully. Some of the really dark blues and other colors will rub off initially but you will still have a nice dark color change
My old ARC knob that I burnt myself has lasted a good 3-4 years and still has not faded.
Clean the knob from any oils using alcohol
put it on the concrete ground
put the torch or flame directly over it and just wait until it starts to changes colors.
After that, don't touch it for a good 30 minutes or so...to let it cool off fully. Some of the really dark blues and other colors will rub off initially but you will still have a nice dark color change
My old ARC knob that I burnt myself has lasted a good 3-4 years and still has not faded.
Any burnt or anodized titanium shift knob can and will fade eventually. It is just a very thin layer of oxide that builds up on the surface when the heat or electricity heats it which causes the colors to build up.
It can be easily wiped off with just a metal polish. Re burning can be done as others mentioned. The darker colors like dark blue, purple etc are the thinnest oxide layers that will build up. With burning it is hard to get other colors though. Anodizing can get many different colors that are not possible with burning.
For torching it yourself you will want to use a torch that has a hotter flame than a MAP or propane torch. Takes too long with just a MAP gas torch imp.
Acetalyne torches work really well for it.
Best way to make sure the knob doesn't get splotches from the torch being in one place is to put it on a drill and spin it while it is being burned. Once the color you got is good you want to quench it is water to stop it from changing more. Will cool off very quickly in water. A minute or so. The bright colors you see will look like they wipe off and leave duller colors but that is just from the oils on your hand. A quick clean with windex or even water will bring them right back.
It can be easily wiped off with just a metal polish. Re burning can be done as others mentioned. The darker colors like dark blue, purple etc are the thinnest oxide layers that will build up. With burning it is hard to get other colors though. Anodizing can get many different colors that are not possible with burning.
For torching it yourself you will want to use a torch that has a hotter flame than a MAP or propane torch. Takes too long with just a MAP gas torch imp.
Acetalyne torches work really well for it.
Best way to make sure the knob doesn't get splotches from the torch being in one place is to put it on a drill and spin it while it is being burned. Once the color you got is good you want to quench it is water to stop it from changing more. Will cool off very quickly in water. A minute or so. The bright colors you see will look like they wipe off and leave duller colors but that is just from the oils on your hand. A quick clean with windex or even water will bring them right back.
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