Thats a great idea I'm gonna use a yellow zip tie

 

Mine separated too. Sometimes the top catches the hoop when opening and split them wide open. I took plastic panel repair from our bodyshop. It worked for a little bit and I just ended up zip tie both lol

 

A body shop that did work to my car split them before realizing that wasn't how they were removed.... I could never get them to stay together after that.

Had to buy new ones. Now I have AP2V2 hoops with faux speaker inserts installed. Looks infinitely better with the top down, but it wasn't cheap.

 

The roll hoops are melted together at the factory with a piece of wire that remains between the two hoops after they've cooled together. I swear I read somewhere on here that they can be re-bonded by applying current from one end of that wire to the other with the hoops clamped together; it should re-melt the plastic together. How long I have no idea, if I remember it was only for 10 seconds or so.

 

So my temporary fix was to use a right angle drill to drill one small hole in the bottom part of the inner hoop opening of each section. I then looped a small black zip tie through each hole and tightened the zip tie. The pieces stay together tight and you cannot see the zip tie at all since it is on the bottom side and the color of the small zip tie is black. I recommend looping the zip tie going from back to front and to make the small hole in the front hoop section a little larger so you can twist the zip tie lock up into the hoop after you secure it.

I will try to post pictures of the fix later if anyone is interested.

 

Hey can you post pictures of the zip tie truck I can’t find any used ones and dealer told me every dealer in america is sold out for months and might not ever come back in stock. I tired super glue and looks worse

 

If you are into RC cars/planes etc.

A Brushed ESC(two wire motor DC motor controller). You can Hook up clips from the motor output to the roll hoops wire, and use a dial as the pwm throttle control. Which makes the wire get hot.

We RC guys use this method to make hot wires for cutting foam to make wings and fuselage etc. Basically you are making a hot wire inside the hoop, just turn the throttle down once it's heated and started to melt.

You can look up on YouTube how to make a hotwire for cutting foam and plastics with a brushed ESC, a good place would be Peter Sripols channel.

 

So basically you just drill a small hole through the plastic on each side of the bottom of the hoop and run a black zip tie through the holes. Make one hole a little larger so you can move the locking portion of the zip tie through the hole to hide it. You cannot see it when you are done unless you look really hard directly under the hoop which no one does. I pulled the zip tie around in the picture so you can see were I cinched it at but once you rotate the tie through the slighter larger hole you cannot see it all and so far it has held up without any issues. Remember I rotated the zip lock portion out of the hole so you can see it so normally it is not even noticeable. I used a right angle drill although a normal drill would probably work as well.

 

Honestly I think someone should come up with a tutorial on how to use the little wire inside with some electricity.

 

Honestly it's not that hard. Like I said you can look up almost any setup on youtube for a hot wire foam cutter/plexiglass cutter etc.. You'll probably need 3-4S(12.4-16.4v) and around 8 amps with the thickness of the roll hoop wire.

I have all the things here to make one, but I'm not cracking my roll hoops open to show you. The concept is the same as a vaporizor for tobacco juice, resistance wire with current fed through it.

Some people have even used wall warts. but brushed motor speed controllers are best as they can vary amperage with the PWM/PPM input and a pot as the throttle dial, so you can ramp up the amps and turn it down really fast once you achieve melt