abs relocation
I was pulling my motor last week and got all irraitated that the ABS pump was in the way of coolant lines and such.
So I decided to move it. I couldn't find a good how to so I figured I'd post some info. I'm not really interested in a "tucked" look or whatnot.. just making things easy to work on, and I only have about 2-3 hours in this... Including going to the parts store to get the 2 brake lines and union.
All the ABS wiring is long enough to move the pump under the fender except the 2 wires going to the driver side front speed sensor. That's a very easy fix.
I also reused most of the stock brake lines. I only had to make 2 new ones going from the master to the pump. They had lines that fit perfect at auto zone. 20" metric thread hard lines.
On to the pics

I rerouted the stock drivers front line to go directly to the relocated pump. I had to extend that brake line a few inches. I also rerouted the other 3 through the existing hole along with the wiring taking care not to kink anything. Those did not need to be extended at all.
I reused the factory bracket to mount the pump. I just had to bend the "legs" to make it work. Ill get some better pics tomorrow
So I decided to move it. I couldn't find a good how to so I figured I'd post some info. I'm not really interested in a "tucked" look or whatnot.. just making things easy to work on, and I only have about 2-3 hours in this... Including going to the parts store to get the 2 brake lines and union.
All the ABS wiring is long enough to move the pump under the fender except the 2 wires going to the driver side front speed sensor. That's a very easy fix.
I also reused most of the stock brake lines. I only had to make 2 new ones going from the master to the pump. They had lines that fit perfect at auto zone. 20" metric thread hard lines.
On to the pics

I rerouted the stock drivers front line to go directly to the relocated pump. I had to extend that brake line a few inches. I also rerouted the other 3 through the existing hole along with the wiring taking care not to kink anything. Those did not need to be extended at all.
I reused the factory bracket to mount the pump. I just had to bend the "legs" to make it work. Ill get some better pics tomorrow
I was pulling my motor last week and got all irraitated that the ABS pump was in the way of coolant lines and such.
So I decided to move it. I couldn't find a good how to so I figured I'd post some info.
All the ABS wiring is long enough to move the pump under the fender except the 2 wires going to the driver side front speed sensor. That's a very easy fix.
I also reused most of the stock brake lines. I only had to make 2 new ones going from the master to the pump. They had lines that fit perfect at auto zone. 20" metric thread hard lines.
On to the pics

I rerouted the stock drivers front line to go directly to the relocated pump. I had to extend that brake line a few inches. I also rerouted the other 3 through the existing hole along with the wiring taking care not to kink anything. Those did not need to be extended at all.
I reused the factory bracket to mount the pump. I just had to bend the "legs" to make it work. Ill get some better pics tomorrow
So I decided to move it. I couldn't find a good how to so I figured I'd post some info.
All the ABS wiring is long enough to move the pump under the fender except the 2 wires going to the driver side front speed sensor. That's a very easy fix.
I also reused most of the stock brake lines. I only had to make 2 new ones going from the master to the pump. They had lines that fit perfect at auto zone. 20" metric thread hard lines.
On to the pics

I rerouted the stock drivers front line to go directly to the relocated pump. I had to extend that brake line a few inches. I also rerouted the other 3 through the existing hole along with the wiring taking care not to kink anything. Those did not need to be extended at all.
I reused the factory bracket to mount the pump. I just had to bend the "legs" to make it work. Ill get some better pics tomorrow
Got some more pics.. Keep in mind that I did not do this to make anything look better or "tuck" anything... Just move the crap out of my way so its easier to work on the motor with it in the car. I have a total of about 3 hours in this.
I'll probably spend a little time tweaking the lines so they are closer to the frame/body once I get the car pushed back in the shop and start "fixing" the wiring.


This is the line for the left front wheel. I will be checking this on a regular basis to make sure the tire isnt hitting the line. If it does I'll re-route it as needed.

The union and short L shaped line are going to the left front brake.

This shows how I reused the stock bracket. I wanted to keep the pump mounted on the rubber isolators.. I figure honda had a good reason for making it this way.

And here's a bigger version of the pic in the OP.

And one more

The current sensor for the air pump is mounted behind the fender here. Since the air pump has been long gone from my car I cut all that out and tossed it.
I'll probably spend a little time tweaking the lines so they are closer to the frame/body once I get the car pushed back in the shop and start "fixing" the wiring.


This is the line for the left front wheel. I will be checking this on a regular basis to make sure the tire isnt hitting the line. If it does I'll re-route it as needed.

The union and short L shaped line are going to the left front brake.

This shows how I reused the stock bracket. I wanted to keep the pump mounted on the rubber isolators.. I figure honda had a good reason for making it this way.

And here's a bigger version of the pic in the OP.

And one more

The current sensor for the air pump is mounted behind the fender here. Since the air pump has been long gone from my car I cut all that out and tossed it.
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I needed 2 new brake lines to connect the master to the pump. They were "3/16 x 20 metric thread standard flare" cost me about $4 each.
I used one 3/16 metric standard flare union, also about $4 along with one of the old lines that went from the master to the pump to extend the line going to the left front wheel.
Everything else only required re-bending the factory lines.
I used one 3/16 metric standard flare union, also about $4 along with one of the old lines that went from the master to the pump to extend the line going to the left front wheel.
Everything else only required re-bending the factory lines.



