I'll be having my clutch replaced in preparation for some FI, and I might as well replace the flywheel in the process.

My current question is, is the increased cost of the ACT flywheel worth the decreased weight over a AP1 flywheel?

I wasn't able to find exact specs, but I believe they are as follows:


ACT: 8lbs
AP1: 14lbs
AP2: 21lbs

I *am* currently DD'ing the car, but the car will be strictly a weekend/track toy once the FI is complete. I can deal with a more sensitive/stall prone drivetrain, but I'm not going to have to do anything ridiculous like rev to 3k to start off the line if I get the ACT will I?

Thanks for your input guys

 

I have the ACT lightweight flywheel on my car; when I measured it, it came out to 8.9 lbs or so

I DD my car and it has not been an issue; it took me a day or two to get used to it after having the stock flywheel which was more than twice the weight. I also replaced the slave cylinder with an AP1 to remove the CDV. Although rev-matching and heel-toe downshifting wasn't an issue for me before, the engine is more lively and it is easier now.

I don't know how high you have to rev up to get it off the line, but its definitely not noticeably higher. After my commute back home I could probably tell you the exact RPM range..

Is it worth getting over an AP1 flywheel? What is the cost differential. I'd say either the ACT or the AP1 is a drastic improvement over the AP2 flywheel.

Btw, what FI setup are you going with?

 

I'll be getting a KW. I was originally going to get the low boost and get the upgraded pull and clutch later, but after further research, I think the best way is to just get the clutch first.

I'll still start with the low boost... the high boost upgrade is so simple to do it's silly.

 

have fun

 

I have been in AP2's with both set ups and I like the AP1 flywheel better than the ACT. With the ACT the RPM's fell to far to fast making it hard to stay in VTEC when changing gears. With an AP1 I would def go with the ACT/Toda Flywheels, but for the AP2 I would prefer AP1 Flywheel.

 

no worries, with the kraftwerks his vtec engagement will be much lower

you are right though; you must shift faster with the lighter flywheel

 

Hmmm

For DD'ing, I tend to granny shift, but I also keep my foot slightly on the gas, so the revs don't quite drop the way it would with your foot off the gas..

Developed out of habit from driving stick in a SUV for a while that dropped revs like no other... I revmatch upshifts while granny shifting.

haha

 

AP1 flywheel is darn good enough bro, 8 lbs on the ACT, to me, is way too light....well I don't track. This is the money saver descision as well, hehe.

 

After having the ACT flywheel put in (along with the HDSS), I can say... I LOVE the responsiveness of the engine.

I have a bit of chatter when I'm 100% off throttle in gear, but I can say that if this was how the car came from the factory, I doubt anyone would have complained.

+1 for ACT flywheel.

 

I have a Fidenza light flywheel with an ACT organic clutch, sucks on hills or in traffic, needs more revs to drive. If you hate traffic and can't keep your foot off the floor like me you will love the light flywheel, revs faster, but you have to shift higher, if you never get VTEC don't buy one, VTEC and redline should be a common event. If you drive the car the way Honda designed it, it might seem a little more responsive. no more HP to the rear wheels on the dyno, just a little different to drive.