So what happens after you crush these things down, they stay in there for a year or so and then you go to drop the subframe to change the clutch. If it was a one and done deal i would think long term it would help with the feel of the car over the road. But for somthing that will be bolted and unbolted numerous times, i dont see the soft alluminum lasting many clutch changes before starts falling to bits or you cross thread a bolt into the "squished" collar.

 

So you will notice that they don't even brand these as Spoon products but separate products/brands all together as they make it for almost any application.

There are many good articles on this, this being the best - http://www.speedhunters.com/2011/06/...s_to_the_gt_r/

It is very clear what this is trying to prevent, great idea in my opinion, and as others mentioned, I think this really is more about making sure the geometry is always perfect under all circumstances, especially when reinstalling the subframe. They started making these for very specific reasons. Even after replacing all bushings in older cars or cars with lots of use, there was still minor improvements that could be made. Very logical and well worth it in my opinion.

 

It is no different on an S2000, GT-R, NSX, whatever, the compromise is there. This isn't a mod about making an improvement that the driver will directly and dramatically feel. It is mainly about preventing something that will definitely occur over time.

 

I really like this idea and I, personally want to get a set soon. I have noticed that my rear alignments sometimes shift, and that one wheel sits further forward in the well than the other wheel. I would think this is because of the sub-frame being slightly misaligned. Most people won't ever need this, but when you're pretty low and trying to cram meaty tires in there, you start to notice things like this.

 

for $25 sure why not, more than that no I'd rather spend money on something else. The alignment range in the S2000 will make up for any minor off from reattaching the subframe the bolt isn't going to get more than a couple millimeters off when you torque it down

 

Looks like snake oil to me.

 

I had these on an RSX/DC5. they actually make a huge difference on that platform. Just daily driving and the subframe will move enough from potholes and groves and ridges in the road to make the alignment go +/-.5 on one side (camber and toe), and the opposite on the other out of whack. Mix that in with a car with a McPhearson strut that already has a considerable amount of movement at the knuckle-to-strut bolts, and you can see why people use them. They make the subframe with aftermarket motor mounts a huge PITA to put back up though. I don't think it is the camber you would have to worry about on the s2000, it would be the toe. +/- .1 on toe either way is a huge difference, and again, it would be the opposite movement on the other side.

 

At my last track day I was using a curbed section of track to help hook the car and pull it through the corner. It was a pretty rough hit lap after lap so I believe after talking to some people in R&C that my subframe shifted to the right. Which makes sense based on the camber settings and crooked wheel that is turned to the right.

I am strongly considering these as a next mod. I went to have my car re-aligned because the steering wheel was off centered. I personally sat in the car during the alignment and calibrated the alignment machine and held the wheel straight. During the alignment my left front camber maxed out at -3.1 and my right front camber maxed out at -4.5. Camber joints are installed on my car. The tech tried and tried and could do nothing so my alignment was set at -3.1 both sides. My steering wheel is still crooked and we were unable to get it back to straight.

I think these collars would have prevented my subframe from shifting in the first place. I suppose that is good and bad. Good because my alignment would not be thrown off and the steering wheel would stay centered and I wouldnt have to get my car re-aligned. Bad because hitting the curb was hard enough on the car that the subframe moved, and if the subframe did not "give" and move, the load would have been transferred elsewhere and could have bent something on the car.

I still need to get under the car and re-torque all the subframe bolts to verify everything is tight. Car only has 35,000 miles on it.

 

A good independent review of the product from a person who didn't even buy them from us.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/103...#entry22704233

 

Has anyone realized just how EASY it would be to make this yourselves. Assuming you have a lathe or have access to a lathe, it would be INCREDIBLY easy to do this! Once you have the dimensions down, churning out 20 or 30 of these things, even in a pricier material like aluminum, would be very fast. You could possibly even get a machine shop to do a run of say...50 of them for maybe a couple hundred dollars. All you would need to supply is the technical drawing.

All this being said, buying them is still 20x easier.