Something that just needs to be said about the DC header...

I picked this header up DIRT CHEAP on ebay for 250 Shipped

Ebay Search ( S2000 dc header )

Do not pay more then $300

Both Header threads had wrong information about this header..

(Official header thread)
DC Sports - $400
4-1 design. 45mm primaries. A very cheap header. No real benefits from this, but has been magazine tested showing 1-3hp gains.

Revised

DC Sports - >$300

4-2-1 design. 45mm primaries. INEXPENSIVE header . Benefits include ONLY header available on the market that comes with ceramic coating... yes you can get your header sent out to be coated but do you really want to go through that hassle, this one comes already done. More than 50% lighter then OEM header. Looks extremely clean and significantly nicer then OEM header. I have FIPK and 70mm testpipe 70mm catback and when i put on this header i would absolutely say that i gained HP and did not lose HP anywhere on the band.

Install...

Step 1- As far as removing parts.. The only thing u have to take off is the black heat shield and if u still have it on, the shield over the top of the header.. Spray some Liquid wrench on the header nuts and cat bolts numerous times.. Let the car cool off.. ( you do NOT have to remove the valve cover, battery ac lines, air box...)

Step 2- Remove the two bolts connecting the cat to the header first...

Step 3- Remove the bolt that holds the small metal bracket tab connecting the header to the engine... you can take either of two bolts off to loosen it from the car .. either off the header and the bracket will still be connected to the engine, or remove the bolt from the engine and once the header is removed the bracket will still be mounted to the engine. I found it much easier to remove the bolt from the engine and slide the header out with the bracket still attached to the header.

Step 4- Hopefully you applied liquid wrench more then once because its time to remove the header and if u strip one of the studs your pretty much SOL. Your going to need a universal swivel 10mm socket wrench for the nut in the back all the others should be fairly easy to get to.
Theres a total of 7 nuts to be removed.

Step 5- The header should slide off from the head. Do not try and take it from the top. Remove the header from the bottom.

Step 6- Take the small bracket off the OEM header, you will be re using it on your DC header. This piece is not optional, without it it will cause stress on your engine head. It is important your header moves with the engine. If your engine mounts are shot and the engine moves and you dont have the bracket in, it could cause cracks. Also take the doughnut gasket off from where the header met the cat. You will be reusing that gasket as well as the gasket mating you header to the head.

Step 7- Do not put the header in from the top. Put the DC header in the same way the OEM came out.. it works! why scratch your valve head and bend your ac lines?

Step 8- Work entirely backwards.. Tighten bolts on the header to head first.. then rebolt the oem tab which should have already been installed onto your new header in step 6

Step 9- You will need to reuse the doughnut gasket off your OEM header as well.. re connect header to cat..

Step 10- Drive for about 100 mile break in period.. Do not go into Vtec at anypoint in those 100 miles javascript:emoticon('')

Step 11- Once the header is broken in disconnect the battery for a minute. Reconnect it and your done.. Put the butt dyno to the test


I really feel like the DC header is underrated.. noticeable hp gain reduce underhood temps and weight savings for less than 300 bucks

A little side note... After installing my exhaust and test pipe my cars CEL went on Catalyst efficiency below threshold.. typical... after installing the DC header and i reset the code i have been driving for over 1000 miles and the CEL hasn't come back .. no need for CEL fix or emulation.. The header keeps on getting better.

Sound wise it has gotten slightly louder.. I noticed it myself but its definitley not in my head, people have told me my car sounded louder and i had not yet told them i had changed the header. Shifting at different rpms the sound has also improved it sounds stronger

Ceramic 4-2-1 DC HEADER

I had also Sanded/ polished the inside of the primaries boreing them out to about 46-47mm , dont know if it helped because i had not bored out the entire header but possibly could of helped


Ill take Pics installed tomorrow

 

so how much hp did u gain form this?

 

Havent dynoed.. but i would say 3-5 hp .. im not saying put this header on ur car as your first mod.. but if your car breathes well (70mm catback 70mm test pipe intake) you will not be dissapointed with it

 

it's the ONLY header CARB legal now.

 

thanks for the review and diy

 

Breaking in the header? It has no moving parts. I'm confused.

 

You should heat wrap it! looooks hot!

 

Alot of speculation... Nice write up!

Did you measure the collector and secondaries?

 

I'd love to see some dyno's, I just picked up a VAFC2 and I'm looking to get a header before I go to the dyno for some tuning. THanks for the post and DIY. Honestly, I haven't heard anything really good about the DC header but I'd love to see what kinda numbers you're putting down.

 

Breaking in the header

1 If you beat the hell out of you car after just installing a new part like a header the nuts holding it on will heat up very quickly... the expansion and contraction could cause them to become loose.

2 Inside the header there are weld edges and uneven surfaces, after about 100 miles you will have carbon build up on these edges,steps surfaces making a more steady airflow current

3 You have to give your car's ecu time to adjust