I'll search around about the "roll center" but lowering the ca def lowers the center of gravity.....not increases like you said

 

def. lowers center of gravity.

anywho I have skunk2 springs, they got rid of the gap. they're great? car feels good, just a little stiffer.

 

10k front and rear is a well balanced s2k for street and track both. When you get into R compound tires then you want spring weights to coincide which would be 12k-16k. Some think 10k is too much for thier liking on the street, but I enjoy them myself and feel they are the best overall performing for the car. Some people forget that allot of your ride in how soft or stiff the ride is precieved is through the damping adjustment. If your going to go the rout of piecing a coilover system togther such as konies with X brand springs. You want to make sure your not over or under taxing the valving of those konies with the wrong spring weight.

Personally I feel my Buddy Club race specs are hard to beat for what they offer right out of the box for the cost, I haven't run into any compromises with these coiovers yet. Been running them for about 6months now and really was the single biggest improvemnt in the cars handling over stock, they offer some nice featers which I will refrain from discussing for now.

Tires like the Azenis RT615, Hankook RS2, Potenza line up etc. is the tire grip you should be looking into for a 10k spring if you want max balance in grip and body control. You put R compounds on a 10k spring and your car will feel somewhat soft and slightly over taxed, though this is when you notice structeral improvements with strut & x braces. I'm utilizing a trut bar up front and a 3 point Cuco style brace and I t was noticable to me with my set up. So hopefully this gives you a little more insight in what this is about. There is a coilover thread that has some good stuff in there and a bunch of crap too, just weed through it like every other thread on s2ki.

 

I'm lowered over 2" on my suspension system, in my own experience roll center isn't a factor this guy needs to be woried about when lowing his car for what he is trying to accomplish. Its just not an issue. Roll center is diferent then center of gravity, roll center is where the swing arm pivots in relation to hight of the center diff or chasis. When you lower the car the roll center is raised but the center of gravity is lowered. What it can do is limit some suspension input response and increaee negative camber geomitry as the suspension is compressed. You can account for some of this in your suspension settings and camber correction, but I haven't found it to be a limiting issue at 2" 2-1/2" drop like I said. I would go back to reading books, but most of all I would get your hands dirty and speak from experience, not some text book therories that you picked up. To be frank.

Anyway its a non issue on the scale of modifications we are working from here. with a good coilover/tire alignment set up this guy will not only look good but he will notice much improvment in cornering grip and stabilty period. The trick is to understand what your doing with each modification so that you can peice together the best parts, but further more at the right settings. Just takes time, I prefure the hands on method to learning. Trial and error is great as long as your safe about it.

 

^IIRC, isn't the change in roll center more of an issue with strut suspensions, less so with double wishbone?

 

I'm not 100% sure on that one, this is where my knowlege tapers off a bit, but visualizing the motion between the two types I would say yes. With double wish bone it appears the roll center would move up to between the two pivot points, so you would move the axis line up further giving you more margin to play with. But that is only my theory, it's possible that it wouldn't make any difference between the two types, I would say the length from the connecting points would make more of a difference (from the wheel to the end of the swing arm pivot). If longer swing arm, the wheel can move more with less movement in the swing arm- effecting roll center less, if short, more swing arm movement= more effect on roll center as lowered. The wider the track, the better off.

 

More aggressive alignment for better handling.

 

Actually thats quite miss leading and a very general statement. Anything more specific to add?

 

I'd have to say Mr. Junky knows what he's talking about. If you've seen his car and seen the way it handled (which I've done) you'd agree. I do like the fact that you're attacking the suspension first. Most go for power, can't control it and smash into walls. Kudos for you good sir

 

i messed with my alignment last week and had -2 camber in rear and -1.5 up front with 0 toe and the car felt neutral. tire set-up is 255/40/17 and 225/45/17.