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F20C powered AE86

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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #1  
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From: Yaphank
Default F20C powered AE86

Hey guys, I wasent sure where to post this so if it needs to get moved feel free.
Ok here goes- I own a MY03 bone stock S2000 and I love it. I recently decided that my next project to start would be a AE86 corolla with a F20C in it. Ive seen a few videos of these cars and it looks like a load of fun. Ive found two ways of doing this this is one ---> http://www.jspfab.com/catalog/i1.html but you'll notice the kit lowers the engine cradle a little more then an inch. In the videos that ive seen from Japan they usally dont do that but then have to chop out the firewall a little to make a new tunnel for the trans, which really dosent bother me at all. I wouldnt mind doing the sheet metal work to fab up a new tunnel. The question is do you think there is a benifit to lowering the subframe? Or am I better off just cutting out whatever gets in my way lol. Thanks guys.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Get the weight as low as possible in the chassis. Better handling.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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From: DFW
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I saw a video a long time ago of some guys in Japan that did this. They had some pro drivers drive it around and they were scared to push it hard. They felt like it was really sketchy, but said it was super fast. They laughed when it was first pulled up and then were in awe when they popped the hood, it was hilarious
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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From: wildomar
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Id say anything John makes for the swap is a good thing to get. He knows his stuff when it comes to swapping F20/22s in Corollas, kewl guy too. Go on Club4ag.com and read, theres gobs and gobs of very usefull info on the swap.

Tsuchiya says in the "American Touge" videos that the Hachi with a F20/22 is perfect for it when suspension is set up right. If I had the cash I had do a F20 in mine for sure, using all Johns swap parts
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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Lowering the front Xmember will increase bumpsteer. You could get away with getting the bumpsteer tie rods.

The lower the engine the more chances you'll whack the oil pan. The higher the engine the more chances of hitting the hood and not clearing any STB's. You kind of have to balance it out.

The JSP kit is pretty good but it doesn't put the engine as far back as I think it should. I think they did they also so that you can keep the steering rack in the same place. From a bolt on standpoint this kit would be easier than doing a custom set up like I did.

GL on the swap
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 07:04 AM
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Even if you cut the firewall and move the motor back for clearance, you'll still have to drop the irewall so you can lower the motor. The f20 motor is taller, and needs to be dropped to clear the hood.

The JSP kit is great, but I agree with what is mentioned above. Cut the firewall and move the motor back before dropping it also. This way you'll also be distributing the weight more evenly and have an overall better balance. After that you have to work at getting the suspension dialed in.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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there was another guy from europe either on club4ag or honda-tech that shortened the shifter housing area and didnt need to hammer the firewall out or cut it. i think it was a mix of john's parts (to not cut the transmisson tunnel) and his mods.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:33 AM
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From: Yaphank
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Yea i'd probably buy the kit and work some stuff out myself. I too would want the motor a little further back, as long as the shifter is still in a good place. I cant wait to be able afford to start this project.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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id rather put that 5-valve toyota 4 but man, i bed that hachi would zip around anywhere super quick with a f20/2c
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 09:06 AM
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From: sunny suisun
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i wish i had money to do this and that if i did i could still be able to dd the car in cali.
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