I have been working on retrofitting an EPS into an Acura Legend for several Legend members. This is something I've come across and thought I would share.

In order to fit the EPS in our car we have to either modify the steering column length or modify the torque sensor length.

To help with a "plug n play" scenario, I decided to go with shortening the torque sensor. We've done it both ways with success.

What I did to get it to work for us is spot weld the torque sensor outer shaft to the torsion bar that runs through the middle. I initially wanted to re dowel the shaft a little lower, !but not a single machine shop was able to drill through the hardened torsion bar. So I went with a spot weld, cut to the length we needed, and a full weld at the cut. Then welded the u joint onto the torque sensor shaft. I'm sure some will feel it's unsafe, but keep that to yourselves, I know the risks, and have driven on it for a few years now .

This last revision of spot welding about about an inch above the torque sensor dust shield resulted in a reduction of steering assist. The feedback from the road is significantly increased! I love the new feel. EPS still functions as should, just with an increased steering effort.

Ive been reading a lot of comments over the years of people HATING the fact the EPS had too much assist. The way I can see how it changed: the torsion bar movement is decreased because of the spot weld. Thus it does not flex as much. Same theory as using a long breaker bar vs small ratchet wrench. The smaller ratchet wrench produces less torque.

So for those that want to increase steering effort effort and gain some more road feel, here's your solution (at your own risk). I would assume the further you move the dowel dow the stiffer the steering will be. However, I cannot find anyone to get through the metal, but I just drilled a hole on each side of the outer torque sensor shaft and welded it to the torsion bar. Creating the same effect as doweling.

 

I really hope this makes sense. And would be great for someone to try on an S2k, as I don't have one.

Cliff'S notes: Basically you are moving the dowel point on the torque sensor down. Creating a shorter torque sensor torsion bar. The theory is that the closer you dowel (I spot welded instead of doweling) the shaft the stiffer the steering will feel. Mine is about 1/2 to 1" from the torque sensor dust boot and is pretty stiff but still much easier than just unplugging the EPS.

Be a good project for someone with a spare torque sensor to test out!

 

Increase steering effort? Buy bigger tires instead of hacking up your car.

 

 

Lol. ¿¿?¿¿?¿¿¿¿ Why would you make this heinous comment?



Cool thread!

Hope someone will find it useful. Do you have any photos to make your point more clear?

However...bigger tires mean more traction. Track people are after maximum useful mechanical grip...not feel. Track cars don't necessarily need to feel all that great. Street cars are all about feel. And I'm sure someone will want to try your mod to gain some feedback from the steering.

I always found the S2000 steering to be great. But...I'm a simple person...for simple times.

 

[left]All my photos are over in Photobucket, after that whole debacle a few months ago I haven't really looked into other hosting sites. I'll get some together and upload here though. Mine is a bit different than what you all would do, but I have some pics showing the pieces to the torque sensor

 

You can use this site to host photos.

What were they using to try and drill this? Just like...a hand drill?

What about a mill? Would it fit in a mill? I don't know what type of steel the steering shaft is made from. But I'm surprised nobody can go thru it...yet you can still weld on it without cracking it.

 

Have you considered replacing any rubber bushings in the steering assembly with solid ones? You'll transfer more NVH into the assembly and will get better feel for what the tires are doing.

 

 

Start with a larger, stouter bit, that won't wander. Just barely start the hole, so that is forms a small, cone shaped divot in the metal, at the precise location the hole needs to be. Now the tiny bit will center itself to that spot.

Or just use a center punch. I like the spring loaded kind. I find them more accurate. You don't use a hammer, so it doesn't tend to bounce or move off its spot.