ttang

For the past few years (yes, YEARS) after my idle speed dropped after mods attributed to faster airflow (intake, filter, Spoon N1 exhaust, test pipe, and most recently, J's header), my car would shudder and rattle, quite disturbingly. I think that the low idle slowly ripped my mounts, because at higher RPMs, the car would shake so much. But it probably had something to do with the age, daily use, Canadian driving conditions, and some incidents with the curb that threw the engine around enough to rip the mounts.

About a month ago, (was installing my header) somebody noticed that my engine mount was torn, on the header side. We had to remove it to make the header install easier, or else it wasn't that noticeable (except looking top down, there was a bunch of rust water pooled ( i was always wondering about that).

When i removed the driver's side mount, i to my horror, it was ripped as well! No wonder my car shudder and shoke; both mounts were busted!

My car is a MY00, currently at 106,500km.

Anyways, I decided on the Innovative Engine Mount Kit from www.inlinefour.com, which came with a transmission mount, to replace my aging mounts. When installing, i had to prop up my motor almost a full inch, it was tilted that much outta place! That also might explain why the heatshield was rubbing parts of the engine and MAP sensor.

Install (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=193&t=646947)

Review:
I thought that the mounts would help keep the engine in place, esp when blipping the gas. However, the engine still seems to move, but I guess that's natural, you do want the mounts to absorb some of the twisting action.

When I start the car, there is no rattling sound now (I'm assuming it was from the engine not being too secure). Even when the RPMs dip to 600-700rpm, there is no shudder, just a smooth low idling sound.

As for the transmission mount, there is a world of difference. Shifting is very notchy and solid. I don't stare at the shift knob but it looks like there is the same amount of vibration (a lot), but shifting is more solid, crisp and notchy (maybe time for fluid change?).

Either way, I'm very happy with the mounts and i urge you all to check your existing mounts for rippage ( you have to take them out to check).

Olegator

Thanks for the heads up

Nyther

I also busted the drivers side engine mount, it just came apart and lifted the engine up about an inch on the drivers side, so the valve cover was rubbing against the hood.

Seems like alot of people having OEM motor mount issues when driving agressive or some time at the track...

I got the innovative mounts with 75A inserts

ee8

What version did you get? Street (60A) or Street/Track (75A)?

How about vibrations in the cabin?

ttang

ee8: i got the 60A. vibrations in the cabin? they were fine for the first bit... read on

addendum:

the 60A bushings (red), were used for about 9 months (approx 6000kms). My car sat in the shop for about 3 months, and now the bushings are sagging so much, the mounting bolt that goes through the bushing, is rubbing against the middle plate on the mount (the one that goes between the 2 bushings), causing a HUGE vibration noise.

if you get these innovative mounts, be sure to get the 75A or higher, the 60A doesn't cut it. Luckily, they have a lifetime replacement warrantee, and you just send the mounts in and they'll replace your bushings for $10/bushing, or send them to you and you can press them in locally.

Talked with Innovative on the phone, and the lady admitted that the most returns/replacements they've had were with the 60A. A step higher, at the 75A bushings, she said, didn't have as many returns, almost none.

Either way, don't get the 60A's, but other than that, the mounts are fine...

ttang

60A bushings, FAIL.

replaced with the 75A ($10 each)


backside of the bushings. They were already pressed into the mounts when they arrived, so I'm not sure if the air bubbles on the back of the bushings were a manufacturing defect or because of the heat from the engine...

ttang

75A bushings:

- can feel the vibrations in the cabin much more
- the car at idle makes me OEM seat feel like a massage chair
- however, very very solid feeling, like the power response goes directly to the drivetrain
- car doesn't shake anymore from loose engine mounts, highly recommended over OEM

Crackerballer

You DD your car? I am MY03 with only 77xxx on the clock, so I don't know if I need to replace mine. However I do have a bit of vibration as you described when coming to a stop out of gear and the RPMs dip.

Is the vibration at idle annoying, or just more pronounced? Thanks for the write up.

glagola1

Wow, those are some scary photos. I'm not a big fan of urethane because I've seen so much of it deform and tear.

ttang

DD my car? i don't understand, pls clarify...

to check your engine mounts, just take a look at them and look for rusted water dripping or pooling under them. Visually they'll be fairly easy to tell. Other signs are:

- the corner of your valve cover (the corners nearer to the front of your car) might be rubbing into the heatshield, indicating that the engine is tilted
- extreme vibrations, especially when at idle or when the RPMs dip

i think the engine is moving so much that it messes up with the idling RPMs. The idle on my car was so off for a while, my car would actually stall when at rest (i thought it could be the MAP sensor or something) but now i think it could be due to the loose mounting of the engine giving too much 'play' and not knowing what idle speed is correct.

Best way to check is to remove the mounts (i would say the on the header side, cus more susceptible to damage by heat) and see if they are good or not.

If that one is ripped or starting to look worn out you have 2 options IMO: OEM mounts, or the 75A Innovative Mounts.