K Swapping...
To the best of my knowledge if you race one to the point of it needing a rebuild, you can not simply bore it and plop new pistons and rings in. Am I incorrect?
There is room for one overbore, but frm is the reason most all performance, race, exotic engines mfg's especially use them. High revving, low friction provides reliability. They are great! Sleeves. I'm not entitely disagreeing with you. Once it is damaged beyond the the very low .0025" overbore. Shes no more.
Most peeps just discard it so quick, not realizing how strong they really are. Etc.
Most peeps just discard it so quick, not realizing how strong they really are. Etc.
FRM as a material is superior to iron. There isn't much difference in the procedure of boring and honing FRM liners. The only real difference is a special ceramic paste and use of non ferrous stones. I'm getting my block done for $200.
Once honed it looks completely different to a regular cross hatch job. The FRM looks almost glass smooth unless you look really closely. It's not until you wash the block before you slap assembly lube everywhere that you obviously see the cross hatching.
To be honest as long as the bore isn't ovaled and scratched boring and honing is unnecessary.
Once honed it looks completely different to a regular cross hatch job. The FRM looks almost glass smooth unless you look really closely. It's not until you wash the block before you slap assembly lube everywhere that you obviously see the cross hatching.
To be honest as long as the bore isn't ovaled and scratched boring and honing is unnecessary.
FRM as a material is superior to iron. There isn't much difference in the procedure of boring and honing FRM liners. The only real difference is a special ceramic paste and use of non ferrous stones. I'm getting my block done for $200.
Once honed it looks completely different to a regular cross hatch job. The FRM looks almost glass smooth unless you look really closely. It's not until you wash the block before you slap assembly lube everywhere that you obviously see the cross hatching.
To be honest as long as the bore isn't ovaled and scratched boring and honing is unnecessary.
Once honed it looks completely different to a regular cross hatch job. The FRM looks almost glass smooth unless you look really closely. It's not until you wash the block before you slap assembly lube everywhere that you obviously see the cross hatching.
To be honest as long as the bore isn't ovaled and scratched boring and honing is unnecessary.
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