Losing Power
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 153
Likes: 27
From: Ohio
Sounds like you found a pretty good cause with the engine dying when the fans kick in or when moving the top, both put a large load on the alternator and electrical system.
I know you said you took the positive cable off the battery to test the alternator, but I'd suggest removing the alternator entirely and having it tested somewhere. Auto parts stores can usually test them.
It could be that your alternator works fine at low load, but high load (fans kicking in or moving the top) is too much and it fails to produce enough electricity at idle to keep the car running.
On that note, if the alternator tests fine, it could be the ELD (electronic load detector) going bad. The ECU uses the ELD to control alternator output based on how much demand there is on the electrical system. The ELD is part of the fusebox, not sure if it can be removed.
Any check engine lights?
I know you said you took the positive cable off the battery to test the alternator, but I'd suggest removing the alternator entirely and having it tested somewhere. Auto parts stores can usually test them.
It could be that your alternator works fine at low load, but high load (fans kicking in or moving the top) is too much and it fails to produce enough electricity at idle to keep the car running.
On that note, if the alternator tests fine, it could be the ELD (electronic load detector) going bad. The ECU uses the ELD to control alternator output based on how much demand there is on the electrical system. The ELD is part of the fusebox, not sure if it can be removed.
Any check engine lights?
Last edited by mikeyds; May 29, 2018 at 02:01 PM.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 305
Likes: 42
Ive been chasing this dang electrical gremlin for awhile now. Once I drive the car and get it warmed up, shut the car off, it will not start again (turns over slow like the battery drained). Let it sit for a hour it starts right up. Now another issue I'm having is when the fans kick on or I close/open my soft top it shuts off my car. Ive already bought 2 different new OEM Honda replacement batteries. If I come back to my shop and shut the car off, then replace battery with my other known good battery the car will start. So I'm certain it has to do with a battery heat soak/drain. My battery is relocated to the trunk with high quality battery cable. Could the new ground location (the rear strut bar bolts) be the issue? Thats kinda what Ive narrowed it down too. Thanks in advance! Pic for boring factor lol
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SimbaDogg
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